I mentioned this Alexander McQueen free downloadable kimono jacket pattern on my sewing plans post a few weeks ago. Now I'm struggling to sew it.
You see, it makes Burda look incredibly user friendly by comparison.
Luckily, I was warned by at least one concerned citizen that printing and taping the 50 page pattern would make my eyes cross. So, I let Staples do the work for me. You can opt to print this pattern out on large format paper.
That said, a headache seems inevitable with this pattern. The instructions are minimal and the origami back is challenging. Don't believe me?
This is the front and back piece. Take a closer look at the darts/tucks.
None of these "darts" are actually sewn as darts. You match up various lettered points and sew a complicated series of tucks. The instructions don't tell you whether you should be making the tucks with right or wrong sides of fabric together. And from what I can tell, it depends on which tuck you are sewing. You are supposed to end up with this:
I have no idea why I didn't pick a brocade for this jacket. Perhaps it was to make it even more of a challenge, but I picked a totally inappropriate fabric. It's a wool/cotton in a fun leopard print from Paron. The problem is that it's really kind of mushy and soft, when this pattern would work better on a crisp cotton or something with a firmer hand.
One of the reasons I chose this fabric is that the "wrong" side is very nice looking, and this is an unlined jacket. So, while I procrastinated starting all the crazy darts and tucks, I Hong Kong finished all the easy-to-sew seams with black silk charmeuse bias tape that I made.
There have already been a few moments when I thought all was lost. OK, perhaps I'm making this sound a bit too dire. I did figure out a number of things and am moving forward, taking copious notes. If I do succeed, I'll share my process. Here's a start...
Alexander McQueen Kimono Jacket
First, the single size pattern is, in fact, a European size 40. It's noted on the pattern pieces. This roughly corresponds to a Vogue size 10. Lucky for me, this is my size. That said, I added to the seams at the two sides just in case I need extra wiggle room.
Next, I sorted out which pattern piece is for what. In the instructions they are just numbered. Here they are:
![](data:image/png;base64,iVBORw0KGgoAAAANSUhEUgAAAs8AAAGWCAIAAAAIeflCAAAgAElEQVR4nO2d/49k1Xmn85/MaNpGDiI29gQFuptGXqGsjCBybc+wG1kx7GZT7Z7NxLsRxlE3ThZYxa5WMsRe6N4lK4FUPYlCsltNNrDSlNfsxqgWIk9UWAEtlfUkgQo9BteA3eI2poc6+0PNFEVNd/W9t+457/ue+zz6/GJGM773nHPPfeqebz/jAAAAAHzyM9IXAAAAAJGDbQAAAIBfsA0AAADwC7YBAAAAfsE2AAAAwC/YBgAAAPgF2wAAAAC/YBsAAADgF2wDAAAA/IJtAAAAgF+wDQAAAPALtgEAAAB+wTYAAADAL9gGAAAA+AXbAAAAAL9gGwAAAOAXbAMAAAD8gm0AAACAX7ANAAAA8Au2AQAAAH7BNgAAAMAv2AYAAAD4BdsAAAAAv2AbAAAA4BdsAwAAAPyCbQAAAIBfsA0AAIBsJEnSycVWozE5zWZT+ua8gG0AAIAA3W435Ru62Wwe+pIeZK1WW11ZyZTFSmXmyFFV6XQ60pVTPNgGAEBUyL7F52dnxd/W1hPl5w1sAwAgA7zFie9sNRrSzbx4sA0AgLRs1uviryISfbANAIBSs7qyIv4qItEH2wAAKDXYBgmQtVpNuqUXD7YBAJAWbIMEyOrKinRLLx5sAwAgLdgGCRBsAwCg1GAbJECwDQCAUoNtkDCRbunFg20AAKRlrVYTfw+RMkS6pRcPtgEAkJatRkP8PUTKEOmWXjzYBgBAWrANEiZJkkg39oLBNgAA0oJtkDCJ72A2bAMAIC3YBgkTbAMm0e12pS8BADyCbZAwwTZgH7rd7ma9vlipzBw52uv1pC8HAHyBbZAwabVa0o29YLCN/PR6va1G4+TiidEmEuVpOgAwANsgYRLfqwTbyEySJK1W66BNfk4unpC+QBmSJGk2m52r8I0HogTbIGGCbZSaTqezsb4xPzs7uZWUc/bGhF54dWVlkI31ja1GY5B2uz3wknIWFxgF2yBhgm2UkcGv9rERkwnZrNelL1mAQnZ0XqpWB16yVqtd6yXxTZsCc2AbJEw21jekG3vBYBuT6Ha7G+sbWVtJOQdTAp8fsVipDD+ZDL2k1WrhJeCVZrMp/h4iZUh8B7NhG/vTarWWqtXcDaWEowNqT6tamJsfeslmvT7wktEpJofCHBQY0ul0xJu0gRy7vfr1J559vt15/Yfv7H5wpey2t6riF2Yn2EbkJEmy1WgM1rJOkxIOpqi1jUKyWKms1WrNZrOEHgmjYBuH5YY7H/hvL196f5+ywzayBNuIloFnLMzNF9JQFisV6RsKTdy2cW1HsNVodDqd+M4ygMlgGxNz/J4/fGmnPyytD3bf/uH29vb29sW3dvYuv/L4P5W/QjOZn50VbOc+wDaueMbczbcU21bK9iO4VLYxmqVqdbNeb7VaDLiUAWzj4MzcdHrrtb2+c871f9x5duOBL9x2nfxVGY50Yy+YUtuGJ88YJL4ZxZMprW2MhgGX6ME2Dsyxe5989V3nnOtf/O7DFTxj+kg39oIpr20UOG6ybxbm5qVvMSjYxrVhwCU+sI2D8omlrTf6zrm9N8898AvSFxNHpBt7wZTRNlqtVvrNM6ZJu92WvtdwYBuTw4BLHGAbB+TmLz/zj33n3Pt/8/hd10tfTCSRbuwFUy7b6HQ6X73//mBtpVSDKdhG+sQ34DJcLRzNHR0EtnFA/uXZC+855z7o/MlvPVg/d77z+vb29uud89956rGvnDwuf3kmI93YC6YsttHr9XLs0zVlSjWYgm3kTgQDLgfd13C7+sGGsNKXWQDYxv75ZO3F9/rOuf7e3uWxIuu/+9q5373zmPQVGoxEA/dIKWxjq9E49HATTynPYAq2UUiMDrikv8H52dnhNmsWd07DNvbP3Wf/rj+h2JIfnF36hPhFWkuwVh2GyG2j0+mEmaJxUMozmIJtFB5DAy5T3unwE4h+/+h2u+INQ2N+bWv7Sgld3rnw7cdXv3jbsaPX3XrPQ3/28pXtN37afuz2j8tfp6nINXMvRGsbvV5vrVYTby7x7dByENiG72gecCn2ToffPwYbzEvf3DjiLUFjrthG//0LT33pMzMjf3T71577Yd8555JXHr9b/jpNRbadF06ctiE4dHJtSjKYgm2EjLYBF683q20LZ/Ha15i5R79/2Tn37vcf/fzYH33ivnOXnHPugx8/99s/J36dpiLc0IsmNtvodDrTnKbmI2u1mnSphADbkMpgwEV2tMXrDWIbBvKx3zp36bJzly+d+63x+RlXB1n2zp9hcUqmCDf0oonHNpIkCb/qJGUUfvouHGxDNrKv5Ihv7VrE61plPld74W3nXP/SXz582+j8jE/98tm//cA5595//akl6Ys0FuGGXjSR2Ea73fa6MeiUabVa0iXkHWxDPIK17/W+sA0LmfmFB75zqe+cu7zz6p8/fPKmmSNHZ45c/9nTf/TyzmXnnOv/w9NLN0lfpLEIN/SiMW8bvV5P/3uuDIMp+msh+ggOpni9r61GQ+q+9kW8opXm2BfWX3r7yjLY/u47F7e339rZu1Jmly89//XPil+htYg1cT+Yt42tRkO8TaRJ9IMp2qbLlDDNZlOq9r3eF7ZhJrf+5h+/8s41+25c3nm5vvSRhSokVSRat0fM24Yz8p6LfjBFvISJ4OYuXu8L27CUY3d95fG/ePHV7Z29vuvvXvr7dvOJ++9gI9FckW7pBRODbZjYbyf6wRTxEiZL1WqUtY9tkHJGuqUXTAy24ZzbrNfFW8ahiXswRbx4yYxc9+T1prANUs5It/SCicQ2kiSR3aE8TeIeTBEvXiK4dsPrfWl7cPTsHEjijnRLL5hIbMM51263xRvH5JxaXpYuJI+IF+8hOXb70u//yXMvXXhzZ88519+91H31hb949Dc+G9GIcqy2oW3zcpZfkTCRbukFE49tOOc0HIwyOUr2mfaBeNlOyHV3PPzshZ/sd0Tl5Z1Xt752xw3iV1hIYp0lim2Qcka6pRdMVLbR6/WUf+QUXKPoG/GyPSjX3fWt8z+5/OGF7u28tf3Dd3Y/uPq/+7sv/5e7o/jCITi/wet9YRuknJFu6QUTlW049dtvRDyYIl62B+X4mfNXthja6373sX97540zM0eOzhy7fenRv3xjb/C94+0Xv/E58eucPrHut4FtkHJGuqUXTGy24ZxTPl001sEU8YI9KFdt4/Kl537npo/80Q2/9OhfJ4M/uvYoKYMRfCt7vS/ZA+euBdsgYSLd0gsmQtvodDrirWRCYh1MES/Yg/Kp+87+1fnz58//1bkzvzz+p1eOyY7kdMpYbUPqpg4C2yBhIt3SCyZC23C6p4sKbsHkFfGCzZMrttF/9/mHPyV+MVMn1toXvK99wTZImEi39IKJ0zZ6vd7czbeIt5WDkm8wRfkQjHipZs/Hbz/zvcQ553Y7T3xB+mIKSKy1L3hf+4JtkDCRbukFE6dtON3TRfOtHTi1vKx5N1LxUs2aD9eq/LT92O0fF7+eKbNYqcRa+4L3tS/YBgkT6ZZeMNHaRpIki5WKeHPZNycXT2S9nV6vN6NvC+dRxEs1U6674+vPvfGec8655AdnlyKYIiq4tZfv2he8r33BNkiYSLf0gonWNpxzrVZLvLkclKzT7Af3Mj87q/bzhniRps7MTdX6yzuDHTjee+M7X78zis02YrUN2fvaF83TwkhMkW7pBROzbTjFh9Fv1uuZbmTYwan9vCFepOlyw50PbHWiU40Z6bdyrPe1L5pHaUlMkW7pBRO5bahdDZt1MGW4R+rC3LzOzxviRZoiN9z50Lev7ugVlWrMSL+VY72vfcE2SIB865vflG7pBRO5bTjFg6zpB1PGnEnn5w3x8jws80tPfn9nYBr9n1x45uGYVGNG+q0c633tC7ZhMYuVyurKSsqs1WpbjUbKNJvNThak268Y8dtGt9sVb+j7Jv1gyma9PvoXF+bmvZZYPsTLc1KOff5rW//3qmq88/KTp65sKvrJh851t7e3t7vnHvq0+EVOF2wjGNjGUrWa/s29Wa+nf3O3Wq30r23lmwLAGPHbhnNuY31D/Pm8NumXLF67F3ur1fJaYllJkkS8PA/MscrD3+lePSrlRy89cerD/ctvvLKreRx7iQo2AH83lXWGUwCazWZRdzc/O5v+tb26spL+tb3VaGT6wa1zfBZiohS2MVg+qjBpBlP2vXjZzRWuRe38mJkjJ//g/KXhWfP93bcvbo9w8e3dvnPYxtT4uymd44YTXtvaTnUBUEIpbMNp/byxsb5x6JUf9ENK1ecNxbZx+untvUOvH9uYEn83pdM2ACArZbENnZ830szAOGhxf44twvyBbWhIgIo+CH83hW0AxEFZbMNp/bzRbrcnX/aEv6vn84Zi2yhRBBuAv5vCNgDioES2ofPzxuTBlHa7PeHv6vm8gW1oiGADSHuRn7n/2Tfed845t7e9dTrNX9Gj1AAwDSWyDady743Jgylja1+vjZLV29iGhgg2gHRXuPDlrQtXh7XS2oaSFg4AU1Iu29D5UpwwmHLowXJKdiPQWbClyvzsrGADSHGFMzed3nptb7g8CNsAKBflsg23394V4jloMCXlvmQaumNsQzzad/f6zH1Pv7Y78jewDYByUTrbKHBnnqJy0K/SlJeq4fMGtiEe2dmUh13e1TGU/psvPv+3gw3VsA2AUlE629C56+W+gynpZ5mI98jYhnhk28DEaxuOoVz+yfe+9S8eOZ/JNtgsCyAOSmcb7uAdLARz7WBKJitaq9VESnIItiEe2Z2nJ13bx07/6T/sOudc8teP3XXD8TPZbEPwpgCgQMpoG61WS/zdcOjbYvLa12sje0ARtiGbpWpVsPbdJNs4fu/ZzvvOObfz8uNfvO7IUWwDoJyU0Tacc/Ozs+JviLGM7SuQdS+yNJug+wPbEMlStbqxvtFqtcSP1DroCj9xzx/94P2+c/33f/BH937s6Ay2AVBWSmobCgdTxkZDDl37em0EP29gG2EyODJ0cLynuGGMsv8Ff2zp7A8S55x7v3P2nuOD/4htAJSTktqG8sGUlGtfxyL4eQPb8JfhBwzN8yX3u/LhGMrua1v33XT1v2MbAOWkpLahc2XKcDBlq9HI9y9Ifd7ANgqM2g8YE9jnRj5Ze/G9/uF/c+/8IzceWBQaVncDQCGU1Dacyl3MZ44c3VjfSJLk1PJy7r8uUpjYxpQ5uXhiY32j2Wxq/oAxgX1u6sYrHzEOAdsAKAfltQ2F23wNMs0M1rmbbxH5NYxt5MjgA0a73bbyAWMC+9zgJx86192+lotv7/adc66/t/Oj7e3t7e65hz45qYik7wwAiqG8tpFvboT+iOwpiW2kyWKlYvoDxgTSF0KmeRvYBkA0lNc2nMp1sNNnYW4+/G9lnbNuNWR1ZWWzXo/jA8YE0hcItgFQTkptGwrXwRaS8J83ck9rjS+LlcpardZsNsW3kw/JocXy6QevjKtkGkmRPfwFAAqk1LahdurGlAn/eaPktjH8gCG7o6sghxbR8YPmjE6cJYptAERDqW0j4tkGzWYzZEmWzTbK+QFjAoeWGLYBUHJKbRsuy3izrSxWKiGLUa1trK6sDLKxvrHVaAzS+SitVmv4R1uNxvCvrK6sjM7sObW8vFmvt1qt0n7AmICn6sM2AKKh7Lahc9eNQjJ28IpXAtvGZIfABsLjqaKxDYBoKLttbNbr4lrgKScXTwQrxkJsA4ewy1fvv99HG2agqjw0m83RT4xFZfRTZVEJ+UMuJspuG3Ev3Qz2VEyYb4tDlAFP3wixjZJga8I+C7PzUXbbiHii6EzYzxuDKZM4RDnBNmAa1E782jfYRj7Kbhsu3omig/DRDwKAbcA0YBtlANtwi5WKePP1l7VaTbqAIX482UZ8W7zDvmAbZQDbiHlZysyRo/Ozs9IFDPHjaVte6duCQGAbZQDbMNbQc4QfiOAbTw+R9G1BIGx1wthGPrANYw09R5i6Ab7BNmAabHXC2EY+sA2XJMnC3Lx4C/aXjfUN6TKGyME2YBqwjTKAbThnbbV31ixVq9IFDJHj421Buy0PtmyDlpkPbOMKS9WqeCP2l8BHwkLZaLfbhTdafkGWB1u2McNXt1xgG1eIe5uvdrstXcAQMz4eH2yjPJjrfqULzCTYxodsrG+IN2JP4XQr8IqPt8VmvS54R8MTlJaq1eG++8MNcwUvLEqwjTKAbXxIkiSjJ4zHFH4mgle63W7hjVZWkdN0BYhIUWAbZQDb+Ajmhg95PEAJhbdY2eG/KS8eEckEtlEGsI1xTi6eEG/KPsIeX+CVwlus4OvZ68sPEbkWbKMMYBvjmGv3KdNsNqWLFmKm8POGBO/FxxKbNCmtiJjrdaULzCTYxj54OvRBNuzx5ZVWq3VqebnMK42LPW/o5OIJwXtROKIat4hgG2UA29iHXq8X33TRxUpFulyjpdVqzVx9JZRWOIq1Ddmzi20tT4tARLCNMoBt7I/CHzfTp9frSZdrhAxVY5DSCkexj4zsgpRozoW2IiLYRhnANg4kvumi7PFVOGOqMUg5haNY25Btq/F92ty3la6urKyurGw1GqMZGEngSeXYRhnANg7E3ANwaGS3S4qPCZtMlFA4in1eZL/DiT+qGhJSOMx1tsFKJiawjUlENl2UPb4KpNvtTv4FXDbh6PV6RTXUhbl5wRvxsVOZxYQcczFX5mwokANsYxK9Xm/u5lvEW3aBkS7RSDhUNQYpm3AUNQAhO0XU3O9sTwk8w0P8fjUXThxgG4cQ2XRRHpLpSakag5RKOIqaXCk7RTSyR95KXyF+v5oLJw6wjUNIkiSm6aLs8TUlmVRjkPIIR1HvadmufHgeW8kTuNGK32+mYBs5wDYOR2pjQR+R/UZtnRyqMUhJhKOoJ0X2LqJZ/mqrFsTvN1OwjRxgG6mIpgOSnX9nmtyqMUgZdhpNkmT6JnpqeVn2LpaqVfHnVEMCF7v4/WYKtpEDbCMVBc63Fw97fOVgStUYpAzCMf2rWnydtvgTqiQU+4RgGznANtISzdyxVqslXZbGKEQ1BoleOKaf9CC7r1dMvyumSfhzasRvOVOwjRxgG2lJkqTwUy5FIv7b0RYFqsYgcQvH9FM3ZAuH5a+DhN+bR/yWMwXbyAG2kYE4pouKj4sbonDVGFZBrMIx5dSNpWpV9vr33Yq+hME2JgfbyAG2kY2x6aJL1erwZIFOp9NsNjfrdf2zzKRL0QaeVGOQiIXj1PJy7mIR//AWzYDplME2JgfbyAG2kY3BsO5ardZsNidMt0ySpNVqqd34nEflULyqxiCxfmSa5oUtfnCgrbPm/WVjfSNwyYvfcqbQheYA2/BLkiTNZlPb/mCyezXqJ4BqDBK+Tw/ANGdeiH/viWat+5QJ30XYmhWHbeQA2whEu93W05FxPNsEgqnGIFEKR+490KQvvBRnzadJeNvQ0z3qLJ8IwDaC0ul0NDxU87Oz0iWhlMCqMUh8wpFvDFF80oaz9j3fX7ANbeUTAdiGAO12W3xshROTr0VENQaJTDjyrewQ/zpt7txzfwl/oBK2ET3YhgxJksjOfmePrzF6vd7C3LxgjcQkHDn2yNLwvY3NNoYJb37YRvRgG5J0u12pjxwxvduKQnw9QkyVknUduIbzApvNpmwD0BNsY3KwjRxgG8IkSSKyUFbDjDyFIBxFkfXTnYaPbWy2MQy2MTnYRg6wDRWIdHPiqw11gnAUQtY5EBpao9oNcsIH25gcbCMH2IYWwm+ZLD4pTy3iHV8cwpF+HoySjc7E611PKPzJwTZygG0oIrBw8MAcRJIk02y/XUgiEI70X4k0DKM4NtsYSfjCxzaiB9vQRcghFfb4mkCSJOLn3VgXjvT2rGEYxbHZxkjCFz62ET3YhjpCPnXS96oahGNKUp4Hq2E1imOzjY8mfPljG9GDbaij1+sF+6LLHl+TQTimJE3pKRlGYbONYUS+em7W6+I3nj7YRg6wDY0EW/cffsdAcyAc05DmFaJkGIXNNoYRsQ1by4817LJvDmxDKV+9//4Az4zd11hIEI7cHPrBQMlqFGftbec12IbOIrIOtqGUMN91FysV6Ru1AcKRj0Onbuj5uia+z4qeYBs6i8g62IZewuw1pOQ7tn56vd5tty7I9nEWhWOypfV6PekLvIKtWYpeIzJMgG1ED7ahlxxHW+VIu92WvlEzdLtdhCMrE74ZnFw8IX11H7JYqYi/w5REZAokthE92IZqAnzeYLpTJgRPpR/GlnBM2HVDVdsTf4HpCbZxaLCNHGAbqgkwe4PHJisIRyYm7GOhZ+/8lFuDlCTYxqGh28wBtqGdAItTpG/RHghHJva9/vnZWenr+hA22xiNyA4o2Eb0YBvaCXB4ip6fmIZAONKz7wRMVRePbYxGpEPANqIH2zBA+rM080XPKkRbIBwp2XePLyVbiA6w9arzHWzj0GAbOcA2DOB7T18lB1VYBOFIQ7vdvvayVS29tvWq8x1s49BgGznANgzg+7wo9viahgBDXYdGuXBcu5ZbzxaiA9hsYzQixyfZGszCNnKAbdjA90aWejZZsgjCcShjX4C0HWqFbYxGpAqwjejBNmzg+8goVYPoFkE4JjP2Otd2+DBbe41GpAps2cbC3LxIKZkG27CB731FNb+orIBwTGB0VF5hTy1ecaoiUgW2bEOqlEyDbZjB62AKUzcKAeE4iNGJotqukK29RiO1Dwq2ET3Yhhl8D6YwdaMQNAiHwiXNox/ntA3bmXvPeY3UjARztSBSSqbBNszge2WKwleUUTQIh7Y3uhuZKKpq7asz+J7zGmwjZURKyTTYhiW8zmVjlnWB+P4QlSbahGMwUVTb2ldnbacH38E2UkaklEyDbVhiwuHdhUTbj07T+K6sNFElHIOXura1rw7b+GiwjZQRKSXTYBuW2HdPxgKj6uUUAQjHKL1er9PpKDRaDdWkJ1I6iG1ED7ZhCd+T57UtFogADW8yPcKhE7b2Gg22kTIipWQabMMYXtfBqjoEPBoQDuVgG6ORsg3fs+ALj0gpmQbbMIbvE9ra7bb0LUYIwqEZ8XP1VEVwYo34vWeKVCnZBdswhu/VlQymeALhUIt4vaiK4O8N8XvPFKlSsgu2YQzfW5jPz84qnMcXBwiHQthIdCwix80PEL/3TJEqJbtgG/bw/eGXF5I/NEwRoH5HMTc50XewDf0FZRRswx6+31hrtZr0LUZLkiSnlpfFO0qEYwi2MRZsQ39BGQXbsIfviaIznJnikyRJvC4sShmEY4CGbeZVRfDZF7/3TME2soJt2CPArtgKN3yMCYRDD2wkOhbBuhC/90zBNrKCbdgjwLdfDqD3DcKhBGxjLIJ1IX7vmYJtZAXbsIfvZSmD8B7yDcKhAQ0LhVRFsC7E7z1TsI2sYBsmCfAscSRsABAOcTSsEtIT2Y+a4refKdhGVrANk/A4RQPCIQu2MRrZ3xjit58pdI9ZwTZMEqaL5PNGGHq93m23Loj3nuUUDmxjNLKP/GKlIl4C6YNtZAXbMEmwLpInKgzdbhfhEEG8zFVF1jZsmR99Y1awDZMEeyz5vBGMbrer4XiwsgmHeIGriuzOfthG3GAbJgn5WHIqbDAQjvCIl7aqyG60g23EDbZhkpCP5cnFE5zTFgyEIyQcyTYWbCN9+BmWFWzDJIEfy816XfqOSwTCEQwOSRkLtmGlrCyCbZgk/GOJyIcE4QgDtjEWbMNKWVkE2zBJ+Mdyfna22+1K33eJQDgCgG2MRXYuArYRN9iGSUQeS4QjMEqOJ41YOLCNsWAb6YNtZAXbMIngY9lsNqXvvkQgHF5pt9viZasq2Eb6YBtZwTZMIvuYffX++1n9FQyEwx8cADsWbCN9sI2sYBsmEX/SZo4c3VjfwDnCoEQ44pspjG2MRXatO7YRN9iGPVRtEnBqebnVarEhh280CEd8E3ewjbFQHemDbWQF27CHzqlta7Vas9ns9XrSxRMtCEfh2Hq9BQjVkT7YRlawDXtoeOtMyMLc/FqtttVodDqdmN5MGtBQ9TEJx2a9Ll6eqiJbHdhG3GAb9rD1TM4cObpYqayurAyz1WgM0263i5r8kSRJu90eiE7EIzvNZlO8QqMRDlsTBXxnqVqVrQ5bPRu2kRVswx46R1KmzPzs7OrKysAVhhYyRrvdHjWVrUZjrVYbGMzYv7ZYqcQ3pXHIxvqGhvqKQDiwjdGIH/iMbcQNtmGSk4snxB82/VldWYngjbgvCEchYBujwTYyZa1Wky0uc2AbJtHwOd1KNuv1KAdWEI7pwTZGg23YKi5zYBsm6fV64g+boSzMzUe5BSrCMSVL1ap4AerJxvqGbHVgG3GDbViFjjJrlqrV+LYjQzimQbzoVEV8IgK2ETfYhlVsPZl6slarRbYpCMKRG/FyUxVsI1OwjaxgG1bpdrviz5vRzN18S2SrZBGOfIgXmqpgG5mCbWQF2zDMYqUi/sjZTWSrZDVMeDQnHOIlpiric5tsTX7HNrKCbRhGwy9a64mmy0iS5NTysnh52hIO8eJSFfFZTbZ2Eoqm6wgGtmGYdrst/shZT0xdRpIkGuYOWxEOW++2AME2MiWmriMM2IZhVB0GazSRdRkIR3psvdsCBNvIlMi6jgBgG7bRMFpvOvF1GQhHSqTebcfPnN+beGF7588cl7gwbCNT4us6fINt2MbWLG6FibLLUNJrKxcObGMsgcr9YJS025SJsuvwCrZhG1vPp8KIr/rzxMLcvHjZzugWDmnb6O/t/Gh7P7rnHvq0xIVJV4ix3gzbyAq2YRtbz6fCxGobetYrqRWOVqslUiBXbWNve+u0eO2MRrpC7PVm0gVmDGzDNuaeT22J1TakXqX7RqdwSI1CYhsHYa43ky4wY2AbtjH3fGqL+I5GntC2XkmhcGAbo9EwLmCuN5MuMGNgG7ZR9RPWYsTn4ftD23olbcKBbYwG28gR6QIzBrZhG9akTJmIbUPhPtALc2Sc6MQAABTpSURBVPN6hEPaNj7YudA+3+m+s/uBc3s7b/79y8//10eqt18nVDXYRo5IF5gxsA3bYBtTJmLb0Hlu3223LigRDmnb2I+9H730xKmbJK5Kg230ej3x9pkp0gVmDGzDNtjGlIns9PkxdJ7bd9utCxqKfa1WE7n9j9hGf/edi9sX397tf/hf3nz+oTvCX9VmvS5RCeOIN85MkS4tY2AbtsE26C8msFmvi5fwvmm1WtJlIzav5VMPPPfjvnPuvTfP//HX/tlNM0eOzhy7fenMs52dy4ML67+x9aWPhb4qJYuzxFtmpkiXljGwDduofZ1YiXQF+kXtuX0a3m1ys2jnl578q1f/59fvPDb6H2duOr312l7fOef6rz1dPV7CGnHYRtRgG7bRtu7AXKQr0DviJbxvNtY3pAtG4bPziw89Pxhgevf7j34+8P97XLZx+untybvDO1fEDvEBCiQmsA3b6OsxLWWxUpGuQO9IzU6YHA1zEhU+O4KLYzWMbTlsI2qwDdso7DENRcM7zzc6d2SZn52VLhiFz85NX9r6h75zziWvPH534P93JYuzCrqdq7bR333n4vgxNFfn5O69+cx9n5ju/0i2rMyBbdhGun+0nTLYhtpVhdIFI2Ubdz301P94+okzD5w6edvIvI3rbr3nwSdf2B7M23j/bx6/6/rAFxanbeydf+TGsT/69L1PXeg75/r/+Ozpm6f8P0qSRLi8TIFt2Eaiu4wnZbAN59xStSpe1NdGfNcNkbu+7p+fvfDB8BL2dt66OPpz2znnXPKDs0tT/ubOkbLYxsfue/bNPedc/81nvjz1wh8lhWYFbMMw2s7CMBclewz4RucyafGeWuKuP/7Z1cYrb42oxRj9H3e2fueja1UCRcMOKK6wSvkn1Qd/75EzZx75vftOfFQpPnH6mTf7rpBhFA1t2BbYhmHMbfSrLUrm4ftG56ai4oUvd+/H7/z1hx9/6tsvvnJhe/BRY2/nrdc757/zJ2fkdi6XrYshnm9z4YHn3nKumGGUGWwjI9iGYbCNKSP+wgvGwty8eGmPRfzDkngJqIpsXQzxe5s//x+e/8kHrqBhlBlsIyPYhmF0fiE3lPLYxsb6xhQFNfsrD9bPne9s7+w519/befPvXnruqW/cO+VxHuKTZsSbn6rI1sUQn3OMZma/8cK7zhU1jDKDbWQE2zAMG4lOmXa7LV2Hgci7qej1n/31//xc59J+exe898Zf/v7dU/xAFN/sRLz5qYpsXQzxuVDoc7UX3nausGGUGWwjI9iGYfRtGGAs5eksck4o/vkHn7t0efiP9Hffvrj9w3d2h2sqdl976vQ0vxFFimKIePNTFdm6GOKxT7v9se//tO+KG0aZKVMHUgjYhmF0rmw0lFJ1Frn68Y/fXvs/P+lf3rnwv5789/dc2R/ixru/tvXq7uAf/fFzD/xs/vKXXQQr3vxURbAiRvFmGx//xUfbP3XOufff2PpyUQuMS9WBTA+2YRjxHsp6StVZNJvNPKV07OTq75767NiazGNf+tPXfuqcc/3/d/buG3KXv+BIFjOsxyJVEWN4s40vPNnZdc65/oU/vefTRf2zpepApgfbsIrOZY22Il2HQSl0U9HPPXJ+xznn3OtP/1r+vltwli62MRapihjDl2380hOdD5xzrv/aU/cWt50JtpEJbMMqag8TNxTpOgzNycUTxRTd1Q0Z3Xvfe2R2Jve/I3gSLLYxFqmKGMOPbVzdrdz99LWnvlTgjibYRiawDauw/HX6SNdhaIpYxDRz/I6v/OELbwzOvErO/8HtU/xrgotgsY2xSFXEGF5s48OBvyKHUWawjYxgG1bReZK4oWg4hjQw071if/XJl7rbb+0MV8P2d176wy8en7IWbBZFhJGqiDF82MbV3coLHkaZOXK02WxKF5glsA2rLFYq4j2U6YjvLiXC/Oxs3hK7etLVFS5feuFbd9+YfxhlEKnjObCNsYjUwrV4sI2bv/zMP/oYRpkp0/aAhYBtmITz2KZPOW1jik9iY7bhnLu883J96TNTCYfUt2hsYzR6vvMVbxs/+9vP/XgwQbTgYZQZbCMj2IZJ6CunTzlto9VqTVt0N95RfbD+4vZ7zrnpdy+Q6q95gkaj51mwtWMhtpEJbMMkTBGdPmu1mnQ1ClDUV7Hr7lp/Kek759ybz/zGFGPhUstSsI3R6LENWz0btpEJbMMkp5aXxZ806yltT1FQ47k6sLJ3/pEb8/87p5aXRQoB2xgNtpEvpe1D8oFt2INJG/QU01BIh37d3U923u8759ylc1+Z7tQJkULANkaDbeRLafuQfGAb9ihg6J2UuKfIsAvtsXufeOnvOy888+Q3/t3dt15/9b8fv/P0f/ruG4N5G/13X1ibna4iRE5LwTZGg23kS2n7kHxgG/Zgp41C0mq1pGtSjJTLp3/uK+d6/eFf2tt56+L29sWRHTec2335yam33BCpCGxjNNhGvmAbmcA2jFHoaRelTpn3AdxY30hRRDfcuVr/bufS3v7/Rn/v0t80Hvj89BsYbNbrYe/eOWzjo8E28gXbyAS2YQxbT6PmlNk2shyyc/1tX1h97Klvv/jKhe23d/vOub2d7c73zm1+vXrb9bkLfzQirzqeI/Eq2Bdb9YJtZALbMMbC3Lz4MxZHymwbzjnx8h9N+Nu39VbzHWwjX7CNTGAblmB+aIGR2jNbCapm/4SfKGrrreY72Ea+YBuZwDbMkCQJZ6MUGOn6FKbZbIpXwTDtdjvw7dt6q/kOtmG93EyAbZjB1nOoP9L1KYyq6cbhfyPyNI1Gz1vTVr3oKTcTYBs26PV6U5zeSfaJdJXKs1StitfCIOF7bVtvtfjK/yBUfXIzVG4mwDZsoGqUPYIsVavSVSrPZr0uXhGDLFYqge8d2xiNnremrZXJesrNBNiGAZgcSjfhA1U9e+B7xzZGo+dxUNUmDZWbCbAN7XS7XcZQ6CY8oadpBV6QbOut5jt6Hgdb9aKn3EyAbagmSRI9g+sxhW5iQLpNRUMk8P7ltt5qvqPncbBVL3rKzQTYhmqYruEpIrtlK0TPIF3gZSm23mq+o+etaate9JSbCbANvej53Rlf2JZnQJIk4nUxyFqtFvLGbb3VfEfPW9NWvegpNxNgG0pBNbwG2xiyurIiXh0zwTtuW2+1yAp/ArbqRU+5mQDb0Aiq4TvYxhA9OxyEvGtbbzXf0fPWtFUvesrNBNiGOlCNACn5kWyjdLtd8eoYJORd23qr+U7gYawJ2KoXbCMT2IYirKxAue7Wk/9mde3xs//920/85qekLyZfAq+AUI6S83dCns1m663mO3o+9dmqFzYJzAS2oYVut6v3NPkbP3fPfQ8/+sSfnXu+3ele2u1fuea982eOi19brrAmZRQlm4qG/OBk663mO9hG7kgXmCWwDRmSJFldWWk2m91ut91ub6xv6Nln6docP3N+b7+7sGsbfAIdpd1ui9fITNgPTubeal6jxzZUHRaYJtIFZglsQwYl/XvKjNpGf/dS9/Uf7TrnLNsG3cQY4tUxE/adh21IlfyhiJdGpkiXliWwDRmUfLtOmU/dV//f5/7syf/48Fe++LnjR47O/NrWtnPOuG2EnCWgHw37yIV85+nZaERD9MwSddhGvGAbMpxaXhZ/TvInCttgougoGjYVDfwLW/x+9UTVwKJ4aWSKdGlZAtsQwPzvqihsQ9XXY3E0jJcHfueJ36+eYBu5I11alsA2BLA1aWOfRGEbqnpYDYivvsY2SlLykxEvjUyRLi1LYBsC2Jq0sU+isI352VnhdqCMrUZDtkawDamoehbESyNTpEvLEtiGALYnbRyJxDZmjhxNkkS4KWhCfFPRwLbxr//Vr4q3QD0JWfKTES8Ko+WmH2wjNOYnbRyJxzbYv3wM2f3lAtuGkuPolCRkyU9GvCiMlpt+sI3QmJ+0cSQe22g2m8KtQRmyZ/RgG4IJWfKTES8Ko+WmH2wjNOYnbRyJxzbYv3wMWRXGNgTT6/VCFv4ExIsiU6RLyxLYRmjEZ/4XkFhsQ9VUfA3IDvNtrG+EvFnxWbGqomdUUbwoMoVNAtODbQQlhkkbR+KxjcVKRbhB6EPwF3/gHVCwjdHosQ1bv8f0lJt+sI2gxDBp40g8tjHDh9BraDabUnWBbQhGz1vT1giXnnLTD7YRFNlZeLnz6QfPdbdHeGtncEhbf/fti6P//aUnfkX6UrOGD6FjCG4qGrjjjkT9C4qejfyxjVjBNoKyWKmIPx45ctCJ8+Nsb1WlL5XOYnpOLp4QqYvAExU5BnY0ejbyxzZiBdsIh/juSbkTsW2wCPZams1m+A3oFubmA98mtjEabCNfsI30YBvhiGHta3TR08lqpjNCs9ncajQGWavVVldWBpnyu13gBSkDxJufnuh5ELCNWME2wmF0GCXusOWGD3q93tBO2u320E426/WhnYy9VETmDYg3Pz0Rsb19wTZiBdsIBFPSdIYtN8oMPwAUPgjYRqxgG4Gw9QiVJ3o6WQgPT6XCB8FWpWAb6cE2QiC4qpBMjp5OFsJj68VWkgfBVqVgG+nBNkJgdJuNMmR+dla6dYAYTNweZqlala6NK2AbsYJteIcPG8oj3UBADLYTVfggYBuxgm14x9bDU8JINxAQQ3CbdoWRro0r2FJAPSuH9YNt+IUdhPRHz1nbEBgez9FI18YVsI1YwTb8IrUJNEkfvoWWFmxjNEmSSFeIc9hGvGAbHmEOmolgG2VGvPnpiZIHAduIFWzDF61WS/xJIGmipJMFEcSbn54oeRCwjVjBNrzAF1pDob8oM0vVqngLVBJsI0foPdKDbRRPt9udn50VfwxIytBflBmWjA3Tbrela8M5bCNesI2CSZKEmaG2Qn9RZth5T9uDgG3ECrZRJEmS8GHWXPScfgnhsfVu8xolL05bNaKk0EyAbRQJv5MsRs8JERAeZnMPo+TFiW3ECrZRGKx3NRpso8wwoXsYJS9ObCNWsI1i4BeS3WAbZabb7Yq3QCVR8iDY2k4e20gPtlEA/DyyHukWBJKINz8lUWIbtrrTzXpdusDMgG1MC+tdI4h0IwJJFisV8RaoIdiG3UIzAbYxFax3jSPS7QgkYcuNQZS8OLGNWME28sN612jCMbBlhqVkw0hXhXPYRrxgG/mhk4omSvZsBhFsLYLwGumqcA7biBdsIyesd40p2EaZabfb4i1QSaSrwjlsI16wjTyw3jWyYBtlxtbrzWukq8I5a9WBbaQH28iMrYeBpAmL5stMkiTiLVBDvvXNb0pXhXPWOlhsIz3YRjZY7xplsI2SU4aHerFSWV1ZWV1Z2azXtxqNZrPZ6XQ6nY62KdLYRqxgGxlgvWuswTZKThyLYAcysbG+sdVobDUa7XZ74BPSpZsNbCNWsI20sN414nAMbMkxsb5sqVod+MRAJlqt1kAmkiSRLr8iwTZiBdtIi4n+iOQLXUbJ0bAIdmFufnSkY6vR0DnS4ZterydeF3QdPsA2UsF617hDl1FywvyeHsjEWq1meqQjAOIdAl2HD7CNw2G9a/Shyyg5hfyePrl4YnSkYzgNM7KRjgCIdwjps1ipSJeWGbCNQ7A1iEhyR7qhgTCHtpD52dmxaZgDmeh2u9LXHhvivQFdhw+wjUmw3rU8kW5rIEyz2Rwb6RhOw5S+tNIh3hvQdfgA25jEqeVl8aZMwkS6rQHAFcR7A7oOH2Abk2DGRnlStpn/AGoR7w0yRbq0zIBtHEKn02EwpQzhgzmAEsR7g0yRLi0zYBuH0+122UI0+mAbAEoQ7w0yRbq0zIBtpIKNRKMPtgGgBPHeIFOkS8sM2EZakiRhO9GIw1EpAEoQ7w0yRbq0zIBtZAPhiDXYBoASxHuDTJEuLTNgG5lhoUqUwTYAlGBr2Fq6tMyAbeSh3W6zUCWycAwsgBJWV1bEO4T0kS4tM2AbOel2uwtz8+INnRQVjkoBUAK2ESXYRn5YqBJTsA0AJdiyDZazpQTbmIokSdZqNfHmTqbPqeVl6dYEAM5hG5GCbRRAq9VarFTEGz2ZMtLtCACcwzYiBdsohiRJthqNuZtvEW/6JHekGxEAOIdtRAq2USS9Xo8NOexGuvkAgHPYRqRgG8XT7XZtPS1kkG63K912AADbiBNswxedTuer998v/iSQ9KHXANAAthEl2IZfcA5DodcA0AC2ESXYRgg6nQ47c6jKwtz86srKZr2+1Wh0Oh3GUAD0gG1ECbYRjlardXLxhPizUbbMz86urqxsrG9sNRrtdpuuAUA5W42GeL+RPnQpKcE2QoNz+AtiARAB2EaUYBsy4BzTZ3VlZa1W22o0Wq0WDzxANGAbUYJtSIJzpMyYWCRJIl11AOALW7bRbrelC8wG2IY8bHw+mlPLy6srK4gFQGmxZRtbjYZ0gdkA29BCCZ1jqVodiEWz2ex0Or1eT7oSAEAebCNKsA1dtFqthbl58een8JxcPIFYAEAasI0owTbUMTjgza5zLFYqbGUBALnBNqIE21CKCedALACgcLCNKME2VKPHOca2skAsAMAT2EaUYBsGCOwc7JEFAIJgG1GCbZhh4BxzN99S7KMy3MoCsQAADTSbTXGHwDYKB9swxjTOwR5ZAKCfTqcj7hDYRuFgGyYZOAdiAQDxgW1ECbZhmF6vt7G+sbqywlYWABAN2EaUYBsAAKAIbCNKsA0AAFCELdvYWN+QLjAbYBsAAKAIW7axurIiXWA2wDYAAEAR2EaUYBsAAKAIbCNKsA0AAFAEthEl2AYAACgC24gSbAMAABSBbUQJtgEAAIro9XriDpE+a7WadIHZANsAAABdBP44MTlbjcaEcC5ESrANAADQxVajMTzsaUIGxzVMRvpW4ArYBgAAAPgF2wAAAAC/YBsAAADgF2wDAAAA/IJtAAAAgF+wDQAAAPALtgEAAAB+wTYAAADAL9gGAAAA+AXbAAAAAL9gGwAAAOAXbAMAAAD8gm0AAACAX7ANAAAA8Au2AQAAAH7BNgAAAMAv2AYAAAD4BdsAAAAAv2AbAAAA4BdsAwAAAPyCbQAAAIBfsA0AAADwC7YBAAAAfsE2AAAAwC/YBgAAAPgF2wAAAAC/YBsAAADgF2wDAAAA/IJtAAAAgF+wDQAAAPALtgEAAAB+wTYAAADAL9gGAAAA+OX/A+Os96wLpayhAAAAAElFTkSuQmCC)
That's all for today. I'm in the middle of pleat mayhem. If I sort it out, I'll share.
I'll be back later this week with more on the Sew Sexy Sew Along. Are you sewing anything fun or challenging this week?
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Original Alexander McQueen 2003. Image source. |
You see, it makes Burda look incredibly user friendly by comparison.
Luckily, I was warned by at least one concerned citizen that printing and taping the 50 page pattern would make my eyes cross. So, I let Staples do the work for me. You can opt to print this pattern out on large format paper.
That said, a headache seems inevitable with this pattern. The instructions are minimal and the origami back is challenging. Don't believe me?
This is the front and back piece. Take a closer look at the darts/tucks.
None of these "darts" are actually sewn as darts. You match up various lettered points and sew a complicated series of tucks. The instructions don't tell you whether you should be making the tucks with right or wrong sides of fabric together. And from what I can tell, it depends on which tuck you are sewing. You are supposed to end up with this:
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The origami back |
I have no idea why I didn't pick a brocade for this jacket. Perhaps it was to make it even more of a challenge, but I picked a totally inappropriate fabric. It's a wool/cotton in a fun leopard print from Paron. The problem is that it's really kind of mushy and soft, when this pattern would work better on a crisp cotton or something with a firmer hand.
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My fabric from Paron |
One of the reasons I chose this fabric is that the "wrong" side is very nice looking, and this is an unlined jacket. So, while I procrastinated starting all the crazy darts and tucks, I Hong Kong finished all the easy-to-sew seams with black silk charmeuse bias tape that I made.
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Wrong side with HK finish |
There have already been a few moments when I thought all was lost. OK, perhaps I'm making this sound a bit too dire. I did figure out a number of things and am moving forward, taking copious notes. If I do succeed, I'll share my process. Here's a start...
Alexander McQueen Kimono Jacket
First, the single size pattern is, in fact, a European size 40. It's noted on the pattern pieces. This roughly corresponds to a Vogue size 10. Lucky for me, this is my size. That said, I added to the seams at the two sides just in case I need extra wiggle room.
Next, I sorted out which pattern piece is for what. In the instructions they are just numbered. Here they are:
- Front and back piece - cut 2
- Center back pleat - cut 1
- Back facing - cut 2
- Front origami piece - cut 2
- Sleeve - cut 2
- Lapel short side - cut 1
- Lapel long side - cut 1
That's all for today. I'm in the middle of pleat mayhem. If I sort it out, I'll share.
I'll be back later this week with more on the Sew Sexy Sew Along. Are you sewing anything fun or challenging this week?