Monday, December 3, 2018

Metallic + Brocade = Sapporo Coat Frosting!

Oh wow how I love this coat!!

When I first laid eyes on the Sapporo Coat, my heart literally skipped a beat. So if you do not like superlatives, then you should just skip this post altogether.

Sapporo Coat by Papercut Patterns

This coat is one of those patterns that has some kind of special magic to it. The shape and proportions are sublime. The front seam lines also create visual shape. I am not generally into over-sized styles, but the Sapporo Coat is not shapeless. The cocoon shaping is intensely flattering on a lot of women.

When I first saw it I had thoughts of sewing in, even though it took a while. I found this rayon and metallic brocade at MetroTextiles and later bought silver kasha to line it with. 

The drafting is superb. Some of the wonderfully drafted features include a mitered hem and lining that goes together so simply and neatly that is seems like magic. 


I did make a few changes. The coat only comes in three sizes. When I first muslined this coat, I tried a straight size S/M, which is the middle sized option and encompassed my measurements. It ended up enormous on top, but left me wanting more room in the hips. So, when sewing the actual coat, I sewed the XXS/XS above the waist, grading to the L/XL at the hips. I also trimmed away a generous inch through the underarm area - from the upper arm tapering to nothing around the waist. There was a lot of fabric under the arms. Lastly, I deepend the pocket bags by 1.5" so that my hands fit in them better.

I think the proportions are great!

The only other changes I made were little enhancements that I like doing and that add some functionality.

The Handmade plate doesn't have functionality. I just like it. 

I added a hanging chain between the facing and lining. I also added two large hand sewn hook-and-eyes to the inside of the front. This way, if I meet a strong gust of wind, my coat won't fly open.

 Anyway, I LOOOOOOOVE this coat. I may sew another for spring in a lighter fabric. For now, I will enjoy wearing this one through the holidays.