Monday, February 3, 2014

Finished! BCBGMaxAzria Knock off Outfit

Finally, on this snowy day, I'm thrilled to show you my knock off top and pants that were inspired by this BCBG Max Azria outfit:

The Inspiration


I finished the top at the end of December, but then took my time with the trousers. Honestly, lined trousers with a side zip, cuffs and three double welt pockets simply take time, and rushing really wouldn't yield the results I wanted. I'm glad I was patient; these are the best trousers I have sewn so far. So, without further ado here's the outfit.




I'm kind of wishing that the weather was better so that we could have done a fun photo shoot. But I'll take what I can get at this time of year - at least it wasn't snowing yesterday. 







And here are the two pieces, starting with the top...





One of the very unexpected results is that, sexy though it is, this top feels a lot less bare than the Shane I sewed in December. Odd, right? I know it's very low cut, sort of, but thanks to the illusion net it doesn't feel at all risky. Everything stays exactly where it should and I don't feel self conscious in it. And it's surprisingly comfortable - a sexy knit top seems like an oxymoron, but there we are. 




 
So, this started life as V8670, a close-fitting raglan tee shirt with bust darts.  I sewed a version of it in November (here) and then  added additional ease and sliced and diced the pattern to create the mesh inset panel pieces on the front and back. 


Slice and Dice (post here)


The fabric for the top is Halston black matte jersey and black illusion net, both from Mood. The extra ease was necessary because the jersey is very stable. I picked it because of it's weight, which is on the heavy side for a matte jersey. You really can't wear traditional undergarments with a top like this, so my priority was to prevent show thru.



 

The net, on the other hand is very light and stretchy. I thought it might give me trouble, but sewed up beautifully and easily both on my sm and serger. Illusion net is really rather comfortable. It really moves with you and I love how it looks. I have extra yardage, so expect to see more in the future. The one thing to note is that it will melt on contact with a hot iron.  Ask me how I know. Anyway, I've been trying to use more of the features on my serger and this was a perfect occasion to finish the sleeves with a rolled hem. I finished the shirt hem with a twin needle. 






Sewing the final top was pretty easy except for the tip of the V on the mesh inset. There is a very slight pucker at the bottom of each. Almost perfect but not quite. It's pretty imperceptible unless you look closely, so I'm ok with it.





As for the style, my goal was that this should look high end as opposed to just racy/trashy.  I hope you think I succeeded. I'm probably about as busty as you could be and still get away with a top like this without it looking trashy.  And well, please forgive my vanity, but is it immodest for me to think that every push up I've done in the last 9 months of post-back injury pt/core training has been worth the sweat? I must thank my trainer.

And now for the Trousers...





The trousers are Burda 04-2011 #120, a wide legged, high-waisted, pleated and cuffed style with welt pockets. There are so many things from this description that sound incredibly wrong for my figure. I don't think I've worn pants that sit at the natural waist since about 1989. Honestly, I was somewhat worried that these might turn out looking like clown pants. But, although I don't think this is the very best style of trousers for me, I do think that I have the height to carry off a wide leg and pants that have some volume. I really kind of like them, and the color is not the least part.





The fabric is a Ralph Lauren stretch wool suiting from Mood.  It was easy to work with, pressed beautifully and I think had just the right hand for this project - drapey enough for the fuller cut of these trousers, yet firm enough for the double welt pockets, cuffs and side invisible zipper to turn out well.




The pocket areas and zipper are interfaced with Pro-Sheer Elegance and I used pocketing fabric bought at Steinlauf and Stoller for the pocket bags. I'm sure that you remember that I wrote about the double welt pockets here. Here they are in final form.



Pocket with invisible zipper.

I really like the placement and look of the vertical hip welt pockets. I doubt that anything but my hands will go in them, but I think they're fun and fantastic style-wise.


Other pocket with pleats

Unfortunately, I fell down on the job with photographing the back of these trousers, where there is a horizontal welt pocket. This was not for any reason - they look totally fine from the back. You will just have to use your imagination. 

Final details are that I lined these with blue Bemberg and finished the waist with grosgrain ribbon so that it won't stretch out.

Invisible zipper with waistband.


Inside waist with grosgrain ribbon finish



Lining with lace finish



I'm more accustomed to sewing very fitted garments, so sewing/fitting trousers that are so full was a departure for me, just as this style is a bit of a departure in my wardrobe. Fitting the pattern was easier than I anticipated. To compensate for my smaller waist and larger hips, I split the amount that I needed to take in at the waist between the darts/pleats and the side seams.




And there you go. My final thoughts on the trousers is that they are among the most well executed garments I've ever sewn, both inside and out. I'm really happy with the care I took with them. Plus, it's nice to shake things up style-wise every so often!

I'll probably get more wear from the trousers than the top.  Paired with a black top and jacket, I could easily wear them to work....




And now I'm just counting the days until Valentine's Day, when this outfit will get worn out on the town. And that's all she wrote!

34 comments:

Clio said...

Love them. Especially the top. It doesn't look trashy at all. It wouldn't even have occurred to me if you hadn't mentioned it. Really. You look lovely in it. I like the trousers too, but not as much as the top. I am not a "blue person". However, the welt pockets look incredible. You should break an arm patting yourself on the back. The outfit looks fantastic.

Clio said...

top came out perfectly! i can hear phin shouting "TAAAAPE!" but am sure he loved the final result because you look so wonderful. and never mind the pucker - remember when we snooped at BCBG all those deep V's were puckered as well.

Clio said...

That's exactly what he said! LOL



Yeah, I felt much better about my own little puckers when I saw the ones on the RTW at BCBG. I think I may have even done a better job! Really, I don't know of a perfect way to sew a deep v inset and I guess they don't either!

Clio said...

The top is definitely statement-ish. I like the trousers too and am insanely proud of the details and finish on 'em. But I think it's a look - and one I'm happy to wear sometimes - but not the very best look for me. I also think I have some photography issues with trousers - maybe to do with the camera height/perspective. I can't help feeling like the photos shorten and widen me some shots in a way that these pants don't actually do IRL. Not the first time I've had this issue with trousers. Sigh.

Clio said...

Oh, how pretty you are! and what lovely garments. I think you are correct: you'll wear the trews more; yet you will enjoy wearing the top, too. (Anyone who looks so closely at the point of the vee is getting too close for comfort, anyhow. And if they dare to criticize your sewing, let me know. I'll think unkind thoughts at them.)

Clio said...

Wow, what a stunner that outfit is. Love the top!!! And the pants really pop.

Clio said...

Ooooh, the power of unkind thoughts! Thanks Lin. Yeah, it would be entirely creepy for anyone to closely inspect my work!

Clio said...

Wow! Fabulous makes! Really love those pants. They look beautifully made and I can imagine how much wear you will get out of them. Clever copy on the top too!

Clio said...

I LOVE this outfit! OMG - those pants should be made in every colour, including black and white for every day use. And the top is so fun and different! Alas, I sense there's no wearing a bra with it!

Clio said...

Yeah, no wearing anything under it that doesn't involve adhesives. ;-)
LOL - I'm glad you like the trousers. I've felt a little unsure about the style on me, but like them in the end. More pants in my future!

Clio said...

Gorgeous outfit and fantastic sewing! I love all of it, and you wear it so well. I prefer the shape of your sleeves to the inspiration photo--it makes a better proportion to the pants. One question about your genius waistband: how did you apply the grosgrain? Is it hand-stitched after you put the waistband on? Just curious. :)

Clio said...

HOLY CANNOLI. You look splendid! The color of the trousers is divine, and that top is stunning! The combination of the two is a smashing ensemble!

Clio said...

Thanks, Mary! I can't claim that I am a genius on this one. I just adapted this finish that I've seen on skirts to these pants since they have a straight waistband rather than curved. Basically you are using the grosgrain (or petersham) as a facing for the waistband instead of folding it in half. I finished it by stitching in the ditch by machine.

Here is a good example of the basic method that I used, except I used fusible hair canvas instead of the sew in stuff + organza: http://www.sewdaily.com/blogs/sewdaily/archive/2011/01/14/sewing-from-start-to-finish.aspx

Clio said...

It's beautiful Clio!

Clio said...

I like Elle, am not a blue person but the construction on your pants is fantastic. Great professional looking welt pocket. I love the top, also agreed not trashy at all just looks VERY high end and expensive. You wear it very, very well - not many could.

Clio said...

Omg... where to begin... The top is sexy... sophisticated... beautiful... amazing. And the pants are spectacular! Those welt pockets are perfect. Well done, lady!!

Clio said...

Great job on both of these, but I must say, that top is a marvel -- you've done a fantastic job knocking off the original. Truly elegant!

Clio said...

This outfit is INCREDIBLE. So well done. You'd never find pants to fit like that straight off the rack (or at least I wouldn't be able to) so this looks incredible well-tailored and expensive to me. The deep vee is suuuuuper flatting on you, too. Just perfect!

Clio said...

Both garments are beautifully made. I don't think every woman could wear your top as elegantly and comfortably. You love lovely.

Clio said...

Hopeless, I actually meant look lovely!

Clio said...

Wow, those are two great pieces. The seaming on the top looks so professional, as do the welt pockets.

Clio said...

You did an awesome job with the ensemble. The top is so pretty and fit is on point.

Clio said...

i actually think yours is much nicer than anything we saw at BCBG, and the fit is so perfect.

Clio said...

Wowee, So well done! Love what you did with the top, and the trousers are very beautifully made and look great on you! Wonderful welts!

Clio said...

i saw this last night and was too blotto to type (from sewing of course, not drinking). HOLY COW CLIO the whole outfit--that top is amazeballs. it looks like you made it with magic.

Clio said...

Ha. Well, I love looking lovely, so, I'll take it!

Clio said...

;-) Thanks! That's why sewing is AWESOME, right?

Clio said...

Amazing top. Love all the details and envy your ability to wear it! I think it looks briliantly high-end. And the deets of the trousers are wonderful. Stunning colour!

Clio said...

Looks fabulous! The shirt is totally hot and the pants look like they were made perfectly. I love the lacy lining hems.

Clio said...

In all seriousness, I find that trimming/hemming the lining with lace is MUCH easier than hemming it without!

Clio said...

Gorgeous! I'm so in love with the top - it's so classy and sexy!! And the pants look incredible. I just love the color and the whole ensemble is just perfect!

Clio said...

freezing cold for such a dress but looks very couture.

jan from
Venus Puzzle

Clio said...

All that work was totally worth it - you look gorgeous. Well done!!

Clio said...

This looks amazing! I meant to comment when I first read it, but subway
reading and no internet access didn't help. Anyway, you pull this off so
well - just like your Named top! Love the color of those pants too. A great Valentine's Day outfit!