I've been a bit obsessed with this top since I saw it.
It's part of BCBG Max Azria's pre-fall 2013 collection. I love how it's delicate, yet aggressive.
And now I can't stop thinking about how I would go about making it. This is exactly the way my leather jacket went from a vague notion to an actuality: an idea took root in my brain and grew until I could no longer ignore it.
So, let's talk about sewing this top. I haven't actually seen it in person, which could complicate things. Here are my questions/thoughts:
In other news, my SM is back from being serviced and is stitching like a dream. Why did I wait so long? And now that I am home for a few weeks, I'm busy with a number of muslins, which has left me without any interesting show and tell for the moment. But there are a bunch of interesting things in the works. Stay tuned.
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| Style.com |
It's part of BCBG Max Azria's pre-fall 2013 collection. I love how it's delicate, yet aggressive.
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| Love the plunging sheer neckline! |
And now I can't stop thinking about how I would go about making it. This is exactly the way my leather jacket went from a vague notion to an actuality: an idea took root in my brain and grew until I could no longer ignore it.
So, let's talk about sewing this top. I haven't actually seen it in person, which could complicate things. Here are my questions/thoughts:
- I could easily modify a raglan shirt pattern for it. If you have thoughts on a good one, please holler, since I don't have one in my stash unless it is in a Burda magazine.
- More important, what kind of fabrics do you think this top is made of? Is the sheer part chiffon or a light weight netting? Is the solid part a silk charmeuse or china silk? Someone suggested to me that it might be velvet. Edited to add: Check out this BCBG dress. Do you think the top could also be knit?
- Also, how is it sewn? I'm wondering how the seams where the sheer and opaque meet are sewn and finished so that they don't have any additional bulk or visible stitching or show through at all. Maybe it's a french seam pressed toward the opaque side?
- To me, the neckline looks like it is bound with the same fabric as the opaque parts of the top. But maybe not?
- What do you think the back looks like?
In other news, my SM is back from being serviced and is stitching like a dream. Why did I wait so long? And now that I am home for a few weeks, I'm busy with a number of muslins, which has left me without any interesting show and tell for the moment. But there are a bunch of interesting things in the works. Stay tuned.
22 comments:
It is a stunning top! I think it is silk chiffon and silk crepe. I'd love to see you make this one. It's gorgeous. The back could just be opaque or it could be made up of chiffon. That would be pretty daring and impossible to wear a bra with; but awesome on the runway.
I second Karin on crepe and chiffon. The seams are probably frenched, and likely topstitched. You wouldn't see the stitching on such dark fabric. Can't wait to see you attempt this!
I think the whole thing is made of knit fabric. The sheer is black illusion, and the opaque is a black rayon knit. If the sheer were chiffon, there would be some folds at the armhole.
I am on the silk chiffon and silk crepe (or the matte side of charmeuse) team. It would seem likely that if the opaque was silk that the neckline would be bound in the same material, and silk just seems natural for that. With all the sheerness, French seams would be a must, right? And I would also second the notion that since it is runway, the back is probably sheer. But that is the pleasure of sewing your own, you could do what ever you wanted in the back! :)
I don't really have an opinion on the fabric, but I think the seams could be finished with a serged rolled hem (see Threads Issue #98 page 32-by Kayla Kennington) or (Threads #61, page 64 by Fred Bloebaum). If you don`t have access to these Thread issues, email me and I will find a way to get copies to you. I look forward to seeing you make this.
Now you have me obsessing about this top. Bad bad bad Clio. Anything I have found while searching makes reference to silk chiffon being used in the collection, I think georgette would also work.
Astute point! I think you may be right.
Camp Charmeuse/Chiffon - Look what I found that may suggest that this is, in fact, entirely knit - http://www1.bloomingdales.com/shop/product/bcbgmaxazria-gown-mesh-inset?ID=678020
Thanks so much, Elle! I'll check my collection of Threads!
Definitely! I already have a few ideas for the back...
a good raglan, sliced and diced, is probably the surest bet. as for fabric, i never know with sheers...the really gorgeous sheers are just too difficult (for me) to be worth dealing with, but you definitely don't get a good quality garment without going there. also, great descriptor: delicate, yet aggressive.
The fabric is totally a spandex blend. I went to zoom on the style website, and on the extreme close up you can see the way the fabric makes a swirly look where it is in two layers (ie, on the sleeve, where it is not over the skin). This is exactly how stretch mesh looks when you have more than one layer. Also, if you notice the ruffles on the sleeves are unfinished but extremely clean, which is another indication that it is a knit. In that case I would assume that the black is a rayon knit (since it looks like it has some weight but a nice drape as well). In that case the neck binding might either be the rayon, or perhaps some sort of a ribbon to prevent stretching out?
As for a pattern, I would say any raglan sleeve pattern could be easily changed to create this top. The most recent Burda ones I can find are in 02-2010-112 or 04-2009-112. There are a few others, but they would require even more extensive pattern alterations. I think if you are using knits you could probably use a serger on the seams? The rolled hem idea from Elle C is probably the best bet right now.
Anyway, looks awesome - I hope you can make it soon! I am excited to see this come to life.
Yeah, I'm thinking how hard could it be to manipulate a basic raglan into this, right? (Famous last words, perhaps...)
Wow, your zoom (or monitor) must be MUCH better than mine. This is great intel and thanks for the pattern suggestions! Seriously, I must catalog my Burdas someday...
Oh! And if anyone would know spandex, it would be you! ;-)
Fabulous! I can totally see you pulling it off. I hope you figure it out. Threads has a great article somewhere on using mesh fabric, I think.
Um, yeah. I'm already pondering what to wear under this top...
Ooh! Thanks!
Heirloom techniques might work for construction, that is, the black opaque fabric is laid right on top of the sheer, stitched down and then the sheer is cut away from the back leaving a 3/4 inch margin. The heirloom finish would be to flip up the sheer margin, press it up away from the opaque panels and then stitch the margin again and then trim one more time close to the stitching.
That is badass — sexy as hell. I love it. Make it.
That's a good thought, Phyllis!
hmmm, everyone seems to think it is a knit. i wonder if it has any darts or if it's just loosely tucked in and that's all the shaping it really has. i think it would be cool if the back echoed the front with the same angular shapes. if you did decide to make it out of a woven rather than a knit - what about velvet for the opaque bits? that would be pretty cool.
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