Thursday, September 30, 2010

Mentioning the Unmentionables: Cami Muslin

One of the sewing tasks I did this week was to work on the muslin for my Kwik Sew Cami. And boy-oh-boy am I glad I'm into muslin at the moment!! I would have been so sad if I had used my pretty silks for this!


OK, I admit it: it doesn't look too bad in the above photo - it just looks like it needs some tapering from beneath the bust to the waist. However, a closer look at the armpit is revealing:



There is a lot of gaping - the fabric stands several inches away from my body. However, when I tried to take it in at the side seam, somehow it seemed to pull and not fit right across the bust. I also tried creating some darts with the extra fabric, but this also didn't really work at all. This has led me to a conclusion that I have been avoiding for some time: I need an FBA. (Non-sewing friends, this is a "Full Bust Alteration". Sounds rather drastic, doesn't it?) It fills me with dread.

Why dread?  Well, first, it seems somewhat complicated, involving cutting up, shifting and re-assembling the pattern. Second, I have a feeling that once I do it to one pattern, there will be no going back. I will have to make a series of alterations to every pattern I sew. Yes, before you say it, this is something I should have been doing all along. However, I seem to have been wily enough to choose patterns that have a forgiving fit across the bust. And I was acting under the assumption that my bust would be smaller post-weight loss and I wouldn't need to learn how to do an FBA at all. Alas, no.

But my craving for lingerie must be satisfied. So, FBA  here I come. Stay tuned. And if anyone has any thoughts on doing an FBA for a bias cut cami that has no darts, without messing up the grain, please do share!

PS - My panties, post-alteration, have been worn and are perfect! More of these to come! 

10 comments:

Karin said...

I agree that it looks good in the picture. If you need an FBA, a simple camisole is probably a good place to start. But it does sounds daunting. Good luck!

Clio said...

Thanks! Yeah, trust me, it looks MUCH better in the picture. The muslin is much stiffer than the silk I will ultimately use, so it stands away from my body. There are extra inches at the side seams.

Heather said...

Have no fear, FBA's are a lot easier than you might think. I hate doing them too but it's a necessity for me with my gigant-o girls. I'm not sure about the bias, though. Once you put a dart in there, it'll definitely mess with the grain. I think you can rotate the dart but I'm not an expert on that. You might want to check out Debbie Cook's tutorials. I think she has one for that.

Sheila said...

I am so intimidated by an fba, and agree with Karin starting with cami is good place to start.

Melissa said...

maybe its too big did you try a smaller size?

Clio said...

Thanks, all. Yes, it needs to be smaller, but with more room in the bust.

Heather - I'm cracking up over "gigant-o girls"!

Heather said...

teehee! Well, they ARE!!! LOL!

Marie-Christine said...

Why dread?? Don't you know about these great tutorials? http://stitchesandseams.blogspot.com/2001/02/tutorials.html

sewistafashionista said...

Your muslin came out well. The very upper armpit area is where a lot of busts start to go back in on the sides - you are over the - er - hump - so to speak. I have had several sleeveless pattern angle out there and can't imagine why the designer made them that way. I'm looking forward to seeing your silk versions - silk is so lovely.

Clio said...

Thanks, everyone! Yes, what would we do without Debbie Cook and her wonderful tutorials!?!?