The Cheaters Guide to #MMMay16

Me Made May 2016 has passed the half-way mark and the adorable outfits photographed in creative and scenic vistas at the beginning of the month are slowly but surely giving way to bleary office bathroom selfies. So, it seems like the right time to jump into the fray.

I really admire those of you who pull together thoughtful me made outfits each day and who remember to snap a cute photo before your 17-month-old hugs you after eating blueberries. However, this post is not for you. This post is for those of you who are unhappily wearing "wearable" muslins that really didn't work out and shouldn't be worn, frou frou party dresses that you are trying to dress down so they look work appropriate, or the same ill fitting me made cardigan that doesn't match anything else in your wardrobe for the third time this week despite its blueberry stain, which you tell yourself is in an inconspicuous location. It isn't. For all of you, this is my magnum opus of cheatery for that most wonderful month of the year. It may not help you for this year, but with a little sewing, it could revolutionize MMMay17 for you in 5 simple steps.

Cheater's rule #1:  sew a coat or jacket. If, like me, you have a weather appropriate jacket and a commute, you can wear it most days and call yourself a winner. Unlike a cardi, it won't stink after three weeks of near-constant wear need as frequent cleaning since you won't be wearing it all day. Plus, jackets are impressive. Even more so if it is leather, because non-sewist heads practically explode on learning that you actually sewed leather. Win.

Bonus cheat for all you knitters: scarves and shawls. Double down and finally put all those beginner projects to good use.

Cheater's Rule #2: Sew a bathrobe or kimono. Why limit MMMay to daytime hours? Ten minutes of swanning around your boudour in a silk bathrobe and your MMMay daily goal is met before you've even put shoes on or finished your coffee. Big win.

Winning at MMMay while nursing. 

Bonus: you will feel like you are swathed in luxury even if your pajamas are so decrepit that a house elf would turn up their nose.

Cheater's Rule #3: Socks and undies
Just because your me made isn't obvious or for public consumption doesn't mean that you don't win. You do. Every time you pick a wedgie or adjust a slouchy sock remind yourself that you are secretly #winningallday.

Maybe don't post photos of you in your undies unless you want that sort of attention.

I walk all over my me mades on an almost daily basis

Bonus cheat: no one will be the wiser if you are indeed actually cheating and not wearing me made underoos. Shame on you. But your secret is safe with me.

Cheater's Rule #4:  Accessorize
Look at any "outfit" in a magazine or posted on Pinterest and you'll see that accessories are included. So I ask: why exclude accessories from MMMay? Did you sew a purse or tote bag or string a few beads on a necklace? If yes, you win.

Just a few of the clutches and bags I've made.

My very first sewing project ever was a tissue pack cover. Why am I telling you this?

#winningalldayatMMM16

Because every time I sneeze in May, I win. And May is allergy season. #Boom

Bonus cheat for all you moms: wear your child. After all, you made them practically from nothing. They are the ultimate me made accessory. Double bonus if you actually made that ring sling or carrier. Again, this is something you can achieve daily without having to repeat outfits.

Taco was so small when I made this ring sling!

Cheater's Rule #5: The MMMay proxy.
Is your spouse, child or any other loved one, liked one or one-who-annoys-you-but-you-made-something-for-anyway wearing something you made today? I call it a win if someone, somewhere is wearing something made by you.  If you can't pull yourself together for a me made outfit or are having a bad hair day, all you have to do is sweetly say to your hubby, why don't you wear your Hudsons today? Then pump your fist while their back is turned because you WIN!

So, Taco in his overalls?

I WIN

Phin is his shorts?

I JUST CAN'T STOP WINNING!

Phin wearing his pajamas in the morning and Hudsons with hand knit socks in the afternoon while rummaging in his diaper bag and babywearing Taco - who is wearing his overalls and playing with Dijon the Giraffe - in my ring sling?

ALL I EVER DO IS WIN!!!!

MMMay win of shut-the-front-door epic awesomeness.


And there you go. Me Made May in 5 simple steps for all my fellow cheaters. Now if you are thinking, But Clio, MMM is not about #winning. Well, then you just don't have a type A personality. Also, this post is probably not for you.

Humor aside, what I'm actually saying is that I've reached a point in my sewing where I use and wear items I've sewn or knit most days, even when I am not wearing a me made outfit. My sewn and knit garments and more just blend right into my life. For newer sewists, well, I hope you stick with sewing long enough to get to this point, too.

But also, I've always felt like MMMay is just one of those things that isn't for me. I've never needed encouragement to wear the things I make. More important, I don't sew basics or in a need-driven way, and one suggested goal of MMM is to encourage sewists to see the holes in their wardrobe and fill them. It's a worthwhile goal, but I will never do this. The last time I tried, my mojo immediately went on hiatus until I vowed that 2013 would be the year of the frosting diet and I would only sew things that are fabulous. This is probably why I am the mom on the playground wearing a silk top in the sand box and why I just can't seem to sew a sensible suit in a muted color for work. I'll wear my me made frosting, but buy the boring basics; they aren't worth my precious sewing time.

All that said, I am happy that we have things like MMMay to rally around. It's part of what makes our community a community. But don't expect me to pop up in you IG feed with the MMMay hashtag anytime soon. I'm content to be cheating from the side lines, smugly winning with little effort. Are you a cheater too? Do tell...

Mojo Retrograde: Transitional Sizing and What to Sew

There have been distinct mojo issues around these parts lately. I've spent a few months in the weeds, not really knowing what to sew and craving all the wrong things. My sewing mojo really felt like it was moving backward.

Taco's 3 month old WTF face. I miss his fauxhawk.

It's pretty annoying to be wearing "transitional sizing" for so long - 10 months of pregnancy and 11 months and counting of post-partum/breastfeeding. I'm sure that in many ways my "old body" is not coming back. I'm cool with that. My body reflects my life's journey. But I doubt that I'll know what my body will look like until Taco and I finish nursing, and that's just irritating when it comes to deciding on sewing projects.

I had been craving sheath dresses and could think of nothing else for about two months. However, not only are sheaths pretty unforgiving when it comes to fit, but I would not be able to nurse Taco or conveniently pump in one. It came down to a struggle between my style and the practical needs of my life right now. I was stuck.

But I recently had a breakthrough. I sewed a silk shirt dress (to be blogged) and am feeling back on track and full of ideas that excite me. As usual, I want frosting. I want beautiful fabric and clothing that is interesting and well made. I'd like the actual sewing to be interesting, if not challenging. Here's what I'm thinking about...

First, I dropped everything, went to Mood with my birthday gift certificate burning a hole in my pocket and bought coating when I saw the new Closet Case Patterns Clare Coat pattern.

View A (right) is TDF! So different!

I think the A-line silhouette and raglan sleeves will be pretty easy to fit and not give me much trouble should my measurements change a bit. Plus it's got welt pockets. I love welt pockets.

Next, I feel like there were several patterns released while I was pregnant that would have been right up my alley, but weren't right for me then, including the Nettie, also a Closet Case Pattern. I've been wanting a sweater dress and Nettie's low, rounded neckline will work for nursing/pumping. Plus I feel like this will sort of satisfy my sheath dress craving while being more forgiving in the fit department. Yay knits!

The other pattern I most wanted to sew while pregnant was True Bias' Sutton Blouse. I've been enjoying wearing easy drapey blouses like Sutton since going back to work. I definitely have silk stashed away for a pretty version.

Next, I wear my blue wool trousers all the time and always get compliments when I do. They were a bit out of the box for me style-wise with their high waist, pleats and full legs. But they feel really luxe on and keep me warm on the cold train platform. I'd love more interesting wool trousers for winter. I have two candidates:

Burdastyle 10/2015-105

I love the BurdaStyle wide legged trousers that were in the October issue. And Sewaholic's Thurlows have been on my "to sew" list since forever. I may hold off on the Thurlows, which I think have a less forgiving fit than the wide legged trousers.

Last, I'm, um, having some troubles buttoning most of my jackets thanks to the extra 3" of bust I have at the moment. (Yes, when I keep saying I don't know where things will settle, that is code for "I have no idea how big my bewbs will be post-nursing." Right now they are ginormous.)  So, if I have mojo left after these other exciting projects, I may try to sew a version or two of Butterick 5567 or another easy to sew jacket or topper.  Wouldn't view A (the green one) look great with some faux leather parts? I think so.

Anyway, your guess is as good as mine about how much of this I'll accomplish or if I'll be distracted by other pretties. But to start out, I have this week off and have already muslined my Clare Coat and prepped my wool coating. So, you will at least see a Clare Coat here.

Also, stay tuned for my silk shirt dress.  I'm already enjoying wearing it. I just haven't had time to photograph it.

Sewing Thoughts on a Winter Weekend

Perhaps it's the weather or lack of daylight, but every year at this time, I seem to have angst about my sewing plans for the next year. In theory, I like a plan. In practice, I like the freedom to follow my bliss.

However, I do have a few goals this year in addition to continuing a steady diet of frosting. The first is to do more drafting - specifically a bodice and sleeve. The second is rather vague and summed up by the word "execute", which sounds rather dire. What I mean is that the sewists that I seem to admire most truly execute their projects well, using really good - and practiced -  techniques combined with patient sewing. Whatever they sew, it's always well thought out and neatly accomplished with fewer "oops!" moments than is my norm.

With those goals in mind, here are a few inspirations - some are inspired by patterns or fabrics that I have in stash and others by styles I've seen. I'm sure that some will get sewn and others will fall by the wayside. But right now, this is what is occupying my sewing imagination.

Ewok Fur Cape
OK, I'm pretty sure this will be sewn next, since the fabric (here), lining and pattern are out and waiting to be cut this afternoon. I even bought a button.

V8959 Very Easy Vogue

Jackets
Is it me or has it been an excellent few years for all sorts of jacket and coat patterns? Here are some that are currently fighting for attention in my brain.

BurdaStyle 02/2014 - #114 and 115:

This is a somewhat "French style" jacket that I could potentially get down with. Look at all awesome deets! I would love to sew this with leather shoulders.

Alexander McQueen Kimono Jacket:

This has been on my "to sew" list for some time. I could throw this on with jeans for play or trousers or a skirt for work. What am I waiting for?

Ralph Pink Cocoon Coat:

I've been wanting to try more indies and bought this pattern in the fall. It would be a fabulous transitional coat, don't you think? Or with satin lapels could be perfect for occasions.

Lastly, Burdastyle 09/2012 - #120 Bolero

I actually wear RTW shrugs a lot and I love the pleating at the elbow. What a fun little detail.


Dresses
Some days, I want to drop everything and sew an army of sheath dresses to dominate my entire wardrobe. These two have been on my "to sew" list forever!

I know, every single other sewist has already sewn this!

Other days I want an army of body con but comfy knit dresses. I really enjoyed improving my knit sewing skills this past year.

LtoR: Temperley London, Ralph Lauren, Selena Gomez wearing??,  Emilio Pucci

And then there are days when I think I should morph a trend into my own style. For example, Clio does the shirt dress:

L'Wren Scott

 
Seriously, this L'Wren Scott number is exactly how I would do a shirt dress. And this Marfy pattern would be the perfect jumping off point for it, don't you think? Besides, I've been wanting to try Marfy.


Accessories
Ok, this one is going to sound kinda weird: I want to sew myself a diaper bag. No, I'm not expecting. It's just that I've sewn 6 diaper bags for friends - all of them fun and not diaper bag-ish, and each one better than the last.

Bag Envy!

So, it's about time I made myself a weekender or travel bag. And why not go with a pattern that I really like and can execute well and that really doesn't look like a diaper bag. Right?

OK, I'd be remiss if I didn't mention that I've also had a couture style cami on my "to sew" list for about a year now. In fact, I've muslined it and am not really sure what it is I'm waiting for. In addition, my last several projects have made me think that separates are the way to go. I could happily sew more trousers, tops and skirts.

And that is my round up at the moment. But I ask: how's a gal to choose with so much inspiration? Actually, what often happens is that I have all these patterns floating in my head until the moment I see the perfect fabric, and that becomes the next project.  How do you decided on your projects?

Wishing you a happy sewing weekend!

Dear Self, Don't Tick Off the Indie-fanatics...

Dear Clio,

I thought we should have another little chat. I'm worried. You seem rather irritated lately about indie patterns. And, as your better judgement, I feel like I should talk a little sense into you for our own good, yours and mine.

Look, I know you like to speak your mind, but when it comes to indie patterns that is simply not done. The owners of these companies are sewists who we all feel like we know and want to succeed. They have some kind of blogosphere-sanctioned halos that deflect criticism. Breaking this taboo will not win us any friends and may actually generate hostility.

What? No! We don't want a fight! Why would we want a fight? We're not fighters. Besides, we've barely sewn any indy patterns. What would we even write about? 

My Lady Grey: One of our few Indy makes (Colette Patterns)

Speaking of which, I think it's about time we did the sewing-community-approved thing and try some. After all, in most areas of our life we support small businesses. We should give it a try.

What do you mean unproven? All patterns are a bit of a risk.

Well, yes, this is a more expensive risk, but...

See, that's what I meant about a halo. Reviewers tend to hint at problems or blame themselves rather than being up front the way they would be in critiquing Big 4 patterns. And some who have been honest have received push back in their comments. But we're experienced enough to read between the lines and take a calculated risk, unlike new sewists who don't know better and may think the problem is them.

Yeah, I feel bad for them, too. 

Anyway, back to patterns. Now, I recognize that we tend to have a point of view when it comes to what we sew and wear. I'm not suggesting that we change our style, but there must be some patterns out there that do appeal and that are actually challenging to sew, which we also like. Right?

Oh. That's not nice. There are indie patterns that aren't boxy basics and use darts and seaming to create shape. And not all of them are for girly party dresses.

Now you're just being mean. I think you're just secretly angry because indie pattern designers seem to be ignoring your style niche.

Are, too! Very mean. And scrappy.

Wow. You are such a prima donna! You know, it's really not all about you. There are people out there who like boxy shirts. And pockets. And being pretty pretty princesses. And that's awesome. Some people rock those looks; you've said so yourself!

Exactly! Diversity makes the community richer. 

OK, so how about if I just show you what I've found for us? I promise, they are all interesting patterns and some will challenge us, too. I know how you like that.

Here we go.

Ralph Pink Patterns - They're definitely edgy and not just for an indie pattern company. Seriously, check out their neck corset. In fact, they have an array of corsetry. But for our first pattern from them, I thought this cocoon coat would be the way to go:

What? Don't you wear your coat with lingerie?

It's dramatic and has interesting details. I also liked the bolero jacket and hareem pants and... and... Really, there are any number of patterns that could work in our wardrobe and would be interesting and challenging to sew. 

OK, now that I have your attention, how about the Shane Pleated Top from Named?

Named designs for a taller height, so maybe we won't have to lengthen for once. And just look at the sexy open sides on this top... 

Yeah, I knew you'd like that.  It opens up all kinds of possibilities for the use of fun or lacy under layers... or not. And it really looks luxe, doesn't it?

Anyway, lastly, I think we need the Bombshell Swimsuit.

Yeah, I'm also not really sure if Closet Case Files counts as an indie pattern company, but at the end of the day do we care?

Exactly! The style is awesome and seems to have flattered just about every single sewist who made it last summer, regardless of their skill level and body type. So, it seems like a real winner. We'll make it into a fabulous bikini a la Norma Kamali when this summer rolls around.

Anyway, that's what I found to get us started. Maybe other people will recommend additional patterns for us. But they'll have to keep in mind that I've promised you that you can be honest about what we do and don't like.

This will be fun. Trust me. I'll even do all the taping together of pattern pieces for us if you can find some scotch tape. Deal?? And yes, I agree. We will review any indie patterns we make the same as if they were Big Four or Burda. After all, they are businesses. Honest feedback from consumers will help them improve their products, practices and customer experience. And more good companies competing for our business is good for the whole sewing community.

Love,
Clio's Better Judgement


PS -  I'm really proud that you didn't make that snarky comment about Espresso not having any pockets. Maybe I'm having a good influence on you after all.

Class Is In Session: How do you learn to sew?

I've been on the road for work these last two weeks and it's been a bit more hectic than expected. But Autumn is here, it's back to school time of year and also National Sewing Month.

Travel gives me time to reflect on sewing while not actually doing it. This trip, I've been thinking about learning to sew and learning new techniques.

Class Dismissed!

It seems like there's been a teaching explosion in the sewing world over the years that sewing has been a part of my life. In addition to sewing magazines and books, which have been around for the long haul, more fabric stores and creative spaces have started offering in-person classes, there's been a proliferation of blog tutorials and sew-alongs, and new web-based platforms have given rise to all sorts of webinars. As the sewing blogosphere has grown, so have the opportunities to learn.

So, I'm curious to know: with all the options, how do you learn best and where do you like to get your info from? Here's a little poll I've created:

 I hope you will say in the comments why your choice works for you! 

I view the growth in classes and tutorials as a generally positive phenomenon. However, with such a proliferation of teaching, there's a distinct downside. Not all of it is good. One reason this is on my mind is that I was recently invited to lead a sewing webinar on a popular sewing website. My immediate reaction was to be suspicious of the quality of the teaching on this site. Ha ha.

Don't get me wrong, I was immensely flattered and I don't mean to disparage myself or my skills. I'm confident, but I still view myself as a learner. I don't do tutorials; I do try to document what worked for me in a given situation and where I learned it. That way I have a reference for myself in the future.

I suppose it boils down to this: even though my Sewing on Leather post is my most viewed  post ever, and the number of hits it receives continues to climb, I don't think that, because I've tried something once and been successful at it, I'm an expert or have any business teaching it to others. When I went to a Sewing on Leather class taught by Kenneth King at Mood, it was very much to learn what I had done right, what I could do better or differently, and to possibly cringe at what I may have done wrong. It turns out that I really did pretty well with my jacket. Whew! Up until then, I had worried that I might be giving out bad information.

So far I've been fortunate to have only taken classes - webinars and in person - that I think were worth the time and expense. But I know several people who have had poor experiences. For me it has all come down to who is doing the teaching. Likewise with tutorials. I'm pretty glad that I know enough to spot bad information when I see it these days.

So my second question set, which is open ended is: What do you think of this teaching explosion? How do you choose your learning experiences? Have you had good, bad or ugly experiences? What have you taken away from them?

Oh, and before you answer, please know: I'm not looking to start any trash talk about anyone or any particular platform. What I'm hoping for is a dialogue. Please contribute!

Yeah or Nay: Tube Tops! (And my Finished Tube Tops!)

Okay folks, here is a yeah or nay where I am firmly in the yeah camp. But I realize this style is really not for everyone: the tube top. 

According to urban fashion lore the tube top was invented just steps from the NYC Garment District and popularized by Elie Tahari in the Studio 54-infused 70's. Who knew? But tube tops are considered rather low brow as fashion. There are loads of strapless styles on red carpets and runways, but the humble tube top seems to be more of a street style. Seriously, just google "tube top". Very very low brow results, true?

Anyway, you've seen me in one of my favorite tops - a black and white striped tube top - on numerous occasions. It really is a workhorse in my wardrobe. It gets layered in the winter and worn solo in the summer. I wear it with jeans or skirts or trousers. It gets worn under low cut tops when I want more coverage or a pop of contrasting fun.

The thing I like about tube tops - aside from how versatile they are - is that they show off the collarbone, neck and shoulders so nicely. They're a great backdrop for a dramatic necklace.

Now, I totally understand not feeling like the top is secure or going to stay put - I'm all about the staying put. And not all tube tops are equal in this department. I prefer tops that have elastic across the top edge and that fit with a little bit of negative ease over the bust. A top that is too big or small will slide down, but a tube top that fits my criteria, partnered with a supportive, well fitting strapless bra is a recipe for success. I have never had a tube top wardrobe malfunction.

It was with this thought in mind that I decided that I could knock off my beloved striped tube top. So, I ordered a bunch of half yard cuts of some fun knits from Fabric.com and made four of them.

What did I do before we got a new post-Sandy fence in the yard?

This was the easiest project ever since it is a one seam top with elastic in a casing at the top. All I did was measure my RTW top and then it was cut and sew, trying on to tweak the fit as I went.

The Prototype!

#2 - Disco Fabulous

Then I made slight variations to the next two tops. The first one needed a little extra length since the fabric cut I received was no more than 16" and cut crooked. So, I used some of the excess width to create a band that I added to the bottom to lengthen it. 

#3 - Stingy cut of fabric

OK, I shan't be too peeved

And my last variation was to use some of my left over faux stretch leather (you remember) and some black jersey to do a leather-blocked version. I think this one is my favorite.

#4 - Corset-y faux leather

Now, I've heard lots of women say that their bust is too small or too large for a tube top or say they feel insecure in them. I thoroughly understand women who are busty not being able to find a suitably supportive strapless bra, but I don't really understand the too small argument since it's not my (mid-sized) boobs that are holding the top up. But perhaps I am some kind of magical size that makes tube tops fit and stay up? Feel free to weigh in on this and enlighten me.

Anyway, what are your thoughts on the low brow tube top?  Is it a yeah like me? Or a nay? And why?

Oh, I should add that Phin gives tube tops a yeah simply because they are teeny tiny to pack. Today we are in Santorini.

Pockets: Yea or Nay?

It's been a while since we've talked about trends or styles. So, I thought it was about time we tackled another trend I've been noticing which is much more main stream than my previous topics (see: bandeau, mullet top, peek-a-boob):

Pockets.

They seem to be everywhere. Of course, there are certain garments that almost always have pockets, like jeans, trousers and coats.  But I'm thinking of the trend of pockets in women's dresses and skirts. They are cropping up in the sewing blogosphere and in sewing patterns. Both indy:

"sewable, wearable basics for busy women - always with pockets!"

Sewaholic's Cambie Dress

And Big 4:

McCalls M6699 Fashion Star Dress

Pockets are even cropping up on the red carpet.

Marion Cotillard at the SAG Awards 2013

Some pockets are clearly design/style decisions, but I'm more interested in the practical, functional element that seems to be a trend. Somehow, I seem to be immune to the allure of pockets.

I find that pockets often add bulk at the hips, which is exactly where I don't want it. So, for me, the norm tends to be eliminating pockets, especially in/on seam pockets. I also tend to favor styles that have clean lines, and pockets tend to break up a garment's sleekness. Even my leather jacket doesn't have pockets.

Perhaps this is a quirk of my own, but I never really put anything in my pockets aside from gloves in my winter coat when I am not wearing it. Again, this is in part because having things in my pockets breaks up the line of a garment and causes bulges where I don't want them. Besides, I always carry a purse. I really love how the right bag can make an outfit by adding a pop of color or texture, in addition to holding my keys, wallet, phone, etc, etc. (Phin is rolling his eyes at me right now because I have a fairly sizable bag collection and yet can always find another that I absolutely "need".) I use several different bags every week based on what I'm wearing, where I'm going and how much I'm carrying, from a small wristlet to a large tote. Is this odd?

I have also found that pockets can become droopy with wear and time, especially in knits where they can stretch out. So, sometimes I'll even stitch RTW pockets closed to prevent any drooping - this is especially true of back welt pockets on pants.  

Then again, perhaps my conservative upbringing is to blame for my non-love-affair with pockets. Hands in pockets was corrected the same way slouching was.

So, I have to ask: Pockets yeah or nay? As you can tell, I am biased. But I realize that this is clearly a quirk of my own. I'm wondering if I'm alone in my non-pocket-ness or what I'm possibly missing out on. If you are a pocket "yea" person, what do you put in your pockets?  Do you not like purses? Do tell!

Anyway, have a great weekend, especially if you are celebrating Easter or Passover. Oh and don't forget there's still another day to get in on the Frosting Shots give away.