Monday, April 16, 2012

Muslin 3.1: At Risk of Over-Fitting

Well, I never did quite get around to photographing muslin 3.0 before moving on to version 3.1. So, let's just dive into my current issues, shall we?

I think I'm in serious risk of over-fitting this jacket.  Looking in the mirror, I'm quite happy with the fit. Additionally, it feels comfortable. But when I have Phin photograph the muslin, I notice all kinds of lines and wrinkles. For example:




See the line originating at the armpit and angling down across the back?



When I lower my arm you can see a bit of excess fabric in the same place.



And with my arm raised you can see it, too. 

Yet Phin swears it is practically non-existent in real life, and the mirror seems to agree. So, the question is, do I do something about it? Or not? 

When I look at myself in the muslin, I'm very happy with the fit. Yet when I examine photos, there are a hundred flaws. But I think that some of them are just that the denim is not going to drape like leather will. Those lines across the back waist, for example, are just where there is wearing ease. I think. I hope

I'm having a serious confidence crisis.  What would you do if you were me? Keep working on fitting or get to work on the jacket? Where do you draw the line with what you can learn from a muslin?


19 comments:

Mikhaela said...

Oh, this is why I hate the fitting process, I never trust myself and the photos can be so confusing. I wish I had an expert fitting buddy who lived nearby!

If I were you, I would NOT do something about it--something that small (or maybe nonexistent) is well within the variation you get simply by sewing with the real fashion fabric vs. your muslin fabric.

oonaballoona said...

on the one hand, you've gone this far...

but on the other, yeah i think we get obsessed with getting EVERY line and crease out. and that might not happen until they make that magical computer fabric that molds to your body on command.

if you're going to hate yourself when you see it, obsess away, otherwise... i think it looks like a jacket!

Peter Lappin said...

I think when you're starting to wonder if you're over-fitting, you're over-fitting.

Do you have any comfortable RTW jackets you could compare the fit to? Outwear must have ease or you're not going to be able to move around in it. Only spandex doesn't crease -- and body paint.

Karin said...

I think Peter puts it very well. These tiny lines are minor and will happen in any garment, when you move around. And you do have to move around! I think the fit looks very good. I'd stop here. I say this as an over fitter myself:-)

Marie-Christine said...

I agree with Peter too.
But the first thing I'd do is ask myself whether I'm always going to be wearing a leather jacket over a short-sleeve t-shirt? Then I'd do a fitting with at least one layer of long sleeves like I'd be likely to wear in colder weather..

K.Line said...

Oh, I wish I had some sort of decent feedback. Part of me says that the point at which you wonder if you're over fitting is the point at which you've almost cracked the code. Part of me says, when you've got muslin versions with decimals after them, it's time to stop. Another part says that it is really impossible to perfect fit in areas you cannot see. I assume, given that this is a leather jacket, that there will not be shoulder pads, right? Cuz shoulder pads would raise things up and likely mitigate the (very slight) wrinkles. (And if you adjusted without taking that into account, you would need more space). I'm not good enough at understanding fit issues just by looking at a pic. I need to touch the fabric in order to get a sense of things.

If it makes you feel better, I'm about to do my scary ass sleeve insertion on my jacket - you may recall that I pinned the last adjustment but I didn't make a final, final, final muslin. Sleeves are very tricky, it appears. It's that whole tube fit into a tube challenge that pants fitting entails.

At any rate, I think this is looking beautiful and whatever you decide will be right choice. How's this for a useless comment?

T. Sedai said...

I have to say that I also tend to notice more wrinkles/creases in photographs than in real life - I think part of it might be the the flash on the pictures. I have often worked out swayback fit, enjoyed the real life view, and then cringed at the pictures. I am pretty sure the flash creates a very high-contrast look to the fabric, making wrinkles and lumps seem much bigger than they are in real life (especially on black fabrics).

I say if you like what you have in real life and aren't going to be so bothered by the pictures then go for the real deal. If your brain won't let you move on until you feel really confident then you might want to give it one more go on the muslin, but I think you are pretty much there with the fit. You do need some wearing ease, and leather will behave differently than denim, for sure. If it looks good in the real world then I say it is time to take the plunge.

(Also, I know I was pro-peplum from the get-go, but I have to say I think it looks really good in the muslins and I am excited to see it done up in the leather!)

Clio said...

Thanks, everyone!!!

Just to answer a few comments:
-I have small shoulder pads inserted in the muslin in these photos.

- I almost never wear long sleeves and never would in weather warm enough for this jacket. My arms like to be bare.

- Yes, the pro-peplum faction steered me right! I'm loving it too!

Clio said...

PS - Actually, Peter, it occurred to me after I posted that I'm wearing a jacket today with a similar fit across the shoulders. So, I have already checked it out in my office bathroom mirror and will be whipping out the tape measure when I get home...

Reethi said...

If you look in the mirror, and can't see anything wrong with it, I'd say you are all set! (I might not be the best person to comment though, since I don't really make muslins.)

ElleC said...

What everyone else (almost) said. Don't do anything about it/them.

Here is a thought, do you know anyone with a DLSR or a high quality point and shoot that can take good photos indoors without flash? If yes, get them to take a couple of shots, or take photos outside. I bet those issues will almost or completely disappear, flash overexposes stuff and I hate it.

Tanit-Isis said...

It seems to me that if the (slight) excess disappears under normal movement (crossing arms in front, putting hands on hips), then you will need to keep it. I remember reading once that a man's tailored jacket is fitted so it sits smoothly on the back when his hands are folded in front---so there has to be a little bit of excess in the back when the arms are relaxed. Yes, I think you're at the Point of Over-Fitting. ;)

Good luck with your make! :)

Faye Lewis said...

Oh this so reminds me of the Lady Grey fitting process. That event almost made me sick to my stomach on several occasions,but I pressed through to the finish line on it. It's so funny the way I can look at fitting pictures of other people and after much contemplation think I know just what the answer is. Oh to be able to take a real bonafide fitting class where you did nothing all day but figure out what was causing wrinkles and then be taught how to fix them. It always makes me wonder how in the world do we purchase clothes off the rack and have a great fit. Or is it that RTW really isn't a great fit but rather all in out minds. You did such a wonderful job on the Lady Grey and I have no doubt that this will also be a beautiful jacket.
Oh yes, and thanks for watching the tops sew-a-long and for the award. Now that the sew-a-long is over I'll have time to respond to the award.

Catherine Daze said...

I'm no expert but I think I'd stop here if it was me. It's almost perfectly smooth already and you need to be able to reach forward, right?

Cennetta said...

Sorry I don't have to add on how to get a better fit. But I do think you need a little move at the armscye for mobility. Leather can be a little less flexible for fabric. And BTW- the style of the style is great.

The Slapdash Sewist said...

As other said, even the best-fitting garment is going to need to have some wrinkles in it, because that's where the ease goes when you're not using it. But I am not a fit expert and don't know how many wrinkles that should be and where.

Sheila said...

Sorry I can't help much. So far the fit is looking good and totally looking forward to your leather jacket.

SEWN said...

You are gonna be one hot chica when you finish this jacket. Gorgeous!

mrsmole said...

Pinch out a little from the shoulder seam (from princess seam to the outer edge) to raise that wrinkle up and away. Then re-set your sleeve and allow the bottom edge of the sleeve to drop down further on the side seam. If you pinch out say 1/4 inch up top, you will drop the sleeve 1/2 inch below.You may only need to do this on the back and not the front but pinching and pinning will make it look better in an instant.