Monday, August 1, 2011

Jumpsuit Muslin

I spent this weekend working up the muslin for my jumpsuit. Maybe when I've really mastered my fitting issues I'll be able to just cut into fabric, but for now I'm a devout muslin-ist. The jumpsuit would have been a hot mess if I had cut into fabric.

I've seen a lot of ill-fitting jumpsuits this season. Few of us that wear the same RTW size on top and bottom AND are RTW height AND are proportioned like RTW is made. I've seen jumpsuits that are either to big or small on either the top or bottom of the wearer. And I've seen lots of too long or short crotches. Really, it's amazing that RTW jumpsuits fit anyone. Thank goodness I sew!

I originally cut a 14 on top and an 18 on the bottom, rounded up just a bit from my measurements. What I ended up with was more like a 12 on top with an FBA (easy-peasy because of the princess seams), and between a 14 and 16 on the bottom, after taking in the excess ease.

One of the fitting problems that I encountered was that the crotch was initially too long. But thanks to a very handy shorten/lengthen line included on the pattern (thank you, Vogue!), taking it up by 1 1/4" was easy. You can see the tuck across the abdomen in the photo.

I had to make some additional length adjustments, too.  As you can see in the photo, the top and bottom are NOT meeting at the waist. So, despite adding an inch to the bodice pattern pieces and 2" to the leg pieces before cutting the muslin, I had to add an additional inch to each.

At this point, I've transferred all the changes back to my pattern pieces. My orange matte jersey is at the dry cleaner at the moment, since I'll dry clean the finished jumpsuit. But once it's back on Tuesday, I'll really get down to work. In the interim, I can cut the lining and, now that I've worked out the fitting issues, I'll go ahead and buy the right length boning. More later!


Eugenia said...

I think that the time and trouble you have put into this muslin is going to be well worth the effort. The fit is looking very good - I'm looking forward to seeing the real thing!

Sheila said...

Great job on the muslin and looking forward to your jumpsuit.

Andrea said...

I can't wait to see the jumpsuit finished and I agree with Eugenia, the fit looks really good.

The Slapdash Sewist said...

I'm with you--I can't imagine how anyone can wear a RTW jumpsuit! Yours is going to have a great fit.

Anonymous said...

I absolutely swear by muslins these days, but have to know the secret of looking good in it. I'm amazed! This jumpsuit is going to be fantastic.

Clio said...

Evie - Actually I do have a little tip for you. I use medium weight muslin. It's a little thicker and sturdier, so it doesn't show every lump and bump, and your undies don't show thru. ;-)