Over the weekend, I stitched up my second muslin for the Lady Grey Coat, this time in a size 8, with just 1 inch of extra length between the bust and waist. It definietly needs some fitting work. Obviously I want it to still have a good amount of ease so that it still fits once it is interfaced and lined, and I am wearing a sweater under it. But here is my initial assessment.
Front: There is too much room in the lapels and through the bust. The lapels gape forward away from my body, or they collapse to the side. So, I need to do the same alteration that sew-along leader, Gertie, did. (It's great that I have the same fitting issues as her, so that she can post the solutions for me, don't you think?)
Back: Funky things are happening across the back. There is still extra room between the shoulders. This photo is with a little bit pinned out from the center seam, but not enough. Although, now that I am looking at this photo, I am wondering if I need to let it out a bit at the waist. That might allow it to drape better across the waist and hip, taking care of those wrinkles across the princess seams. It is so difficult to fit the back of a garment on yourself. Diagnosing fitting problems from a photo is not all that straightforward.
Front: There is too much room in the lapels and through the bust. The lapels gape forward away from my body, or they collapse to the side. So, I need to do the same alteration that sew-along leader, Gertie, did. (It's great that I have the same fitting issues as her, so that she can post the solutions for me, don't you think?)
Side: Actually, you can see the problems best in the side photo. See the gaping front and back? Yeah. Also, I'm not sure what is happening with that crease along the sleeve from the shoulder to elbow. I have to investigate further. Looking at this, I am wondering if I actually needed the extra length that I added. I normally do need it, but perhaps that is what is causing some of the problems. Hmmm. That would be a ridiculously easy solution. Hmmm.
Anyway, I think this is much better than the original size 10 muslin, but it still needs work. I am going to play with it a bit and see how it goes and will get back to you, hopefully soon, with a finished muslin, or at least a new and improved version.
6 comments:
Yes, maybe it didn't need to be lengthened quite so much, but I am not sure. My first thought when looking at your back was to just take it in a little bit along the centre back seam. I'll be interested to see what you come up with and what sort of advice you get from more experienced seamstresses.
I wondered picking a size based on high bust measurement and doing and FBA wouldn't solve all your problems, including the sleeve?
Hmmm, you may be right, lin3arossa. I definitely need the size 8 through the waist and hips, but I could grade down to a size 6 or a 4 (which is what the high bust measurement would point me to) on top.
Well I know you read all about my fitting dilemmas. I totally agree with you that it is so hard to fit yourself, especially the back. This is definitely a two woman job, or perhaps if I had a dress form that was even close to my own figure - well that might be a big help too. I'm in the process of getting a new form.
Of course I know little about the wrinkles of fitting, but I am just trying to remember that the wrinkles point to the problem. If that is true, I think rotating your sleeve towards the back slightly would solve that issue. I read in a fitting book that it's ok to do that. Therefore the mark at the top of the sleeve cap would not match the shoulder seam as it normally would, but it would solve the wrinkle issue. (Just listen to me ramble.)
Good point, Faye. The sleeve is really very full - I had a hard time easing it in. Rotating may help. I may also try doing it in a smaller size.
Your muslin is looking good and think that some of the wrinkling is coming from the fabric and will likely fall away in the fashion fabric.
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