Tuesday, June 3, 2014

Alexander McQueen Jacket - Finished! (And already worn a whole bunch of times)

It's a bit unlike me to wait so long to post a finished project, but I completed my Alexander McQueen jacket right before heading to London and didn't have a chance to photograph it until this past weekend. Apologies that it's a bit rumpled from my suitcase.



It seems like every year I sew a project that is at the tail end of it's wearable season by the time it's done. So I wear it intensely for two weeks and then have to put it away until the right weather returns. Unfortunately, this is that project for 2014. 



If you forgot that I was tackling this free, downloadable knock off of a McQueen jacket, here are my previous posts: first, second and third. Work travel and the SSS-Along meant that I had to work on it is spits and spurts. However, it's done and I really like it, despite some imperfections.

The first imperfection is the fabric. I love how it looks, but this wool/cotton blend really is too soft and mushy to really hold the pleating well. It is also a bit too thick/heavy. This is most evident on the back...


I can't help but feel like it has a more rumpled look than the original or other versions that have been sewn. However, now that I go back and look at some of the others, perhaps I'm being too hard on myself.  



I know I promised more construction details if things went well. The busy and small scale leopard print of my fabric made photographing steps basically useless. So, you are just going to have to wait until I sew version #2 when the weather begins to cool or when I have a chance to do a muslin version mapping out the steps with pictures where you can actually see what I'm doing, instead of the details getting lost in a sea of animal print. If you can't wait to sew this up, Blithe Stitches did the tutorial that was the most helpful to me.

A few construction details that I will share...



First, the jacket is unlined so I finished all of edges with bias binding and did a Hong Kong finish on the seams. I actually made my own bias tape from some black silk charmeuse I had in the stash. 




For a closure, I used two giant snaps, which I hand sewed to each side of the lapel. I think in my next  version I may make the closure higher up, which is where I think it is on the original, rather than under the bust. I think a higher closure would help with the fit across the shoulders and upper chest where it is a little loose on me.



One of the only things I wish I had done this time, and meant to do but simply forgot, was interface that long lapel piece. I think a little extra body and crispness would be a good thing since it droops a little at the back of the neck.

I have no real idea how one would significantly alter this pattern; I made very few changes. I added a bit of length at the hem so the jacked would be long enough on me. I also enlarged the seam allowances from 3/8" to 5/8" and added an extra 1/2" at the side seams, which was easy enough. I didn't need the extra room in the end (really, this is sized like a Big 4 size 10), but it was helpful to have extra seam allowance when doing the HK finishes, especially on this fabric, which was a little bit ravel prone at the edges. 

Last thoughts for now: This was not an easy sew. I was pretty realistic about how challenging the pleating would be. Where I underestimated the project was in how long it would take to finish the seams. It will take a while for me to muster any enthusiasm for Hong Kong seams or making my own bias tape again. Once I realized my fabric was not ideal, it was hard to keep my enthusiasm to finish the jacket. But I'm really glad I did.

Anyway, I wore this with a black pencil skirt and cami to work and with jeans and boots in the evening while in London. I love that it was a fun, yet professional enough work ensemble, and relaxed enough for casual wear, too.

Now that I'm back and over my jet lag, I'm back to sewing up a storm and my mojo is really in high gear. So, stay tuned for more to come in the next few weeks!

20 comments:

Clio said...

It looks fantastic! I am glad you got to wear it for at least a few weeks before it gets unreasonably hot.

Clio said...

The pleating at the back looks amazing! Nice work

Clio said...

Great little jacket! Even though the fabric isn't as intended by the McQ design, it actually reminds me of the original inspiration. Some Japanese kimonos are a bit softer. But this design is just a bit more special. It's a jacket that make you look twice. Can't wait to for your 2nd make!

The collar at the back, can you turn it over or is it meant to stand up like that?

Clio said...

GIVE IT TO ME I WANT IT!!!! Well done lady!

Clio said...

I can't wait to see the next version! (But also enjoy this version!) This is very intriguing. I love the pleats.

Clio said...

it looks even better than i remember it in person :-) i think you are right that a little alone time in the suitcase did the jacket a world of good in your opinion - separation is always helpful for that sort of thing.

Clio said...

This is really, really cool! I'm so glad you finished it- it looks awesome!

Clio said...

a-MAAAAYYYY-zing! I've had this project downloaded and waiting to be printed for ages! Love the pleating in the back. I actually like how yours has a lot of body through that CB pleat - it really gives it a kimono-y look when it doesn't lay perfectly flat.

Are you making another one?

Clio said...

Choosing the right fabric can be such a challenge on projects like this that have new details you haven't done before. I like it though. It suits you. You should make it again for sure!

Clio said...

Soo cool! Awesome work! and I can imagine you rocking this all summer in a dupioni- lighter/crisper. Congratulations-

Clio said...

I am going to give it another go, but probably not until the end of summer when cooler weather is in sight.

Clio said...

It does need something lighter and crisper than this soft blend. That said, I still love the fabric, it just wasn't the best and most easy to sew choice for this jacket!

Clio said...

Thanks! Yeah, it's been growing on me since I finished it.

Clio said...

LOL -Yeah, the alone time helped us both!

Clio said...

Ha! A few weeks ago, I would have considered shipping it off to someone else, but it's grown on me since. ;)

Clio said...

I don't think you could really turn the collar without messing up the front. It's actually not so much that the collar rumples a bit, but more that I think it would look and wear better with a firmer collar/lapel band thing. I like that it came out a bit soft and sweater-like, but a bit more structure would probably make it more of what I saw in my mind.

Clio said...

I think this is a gorgeous jacket, it's dramatic and unusual without being crazy, it's great that you can wear it with jeans and also with a classic pencil skirt.

Clio said...

I love your version. I've had a download of this pattern for YEARS and I'm mad at myself for not attempting it. It looks exceptional.

Clio said...

Yeah, it took me years to muster the nerve to try it too! And in that time, a few other brave sewists did tutorials. So, don't be too hard on yourself.

Clio said...

It's really versatile!