On the Work Bench: Alexander McQueen Kimono Jacket

I mentioned this Alexander McQueen free downloadable kimono jacket pattern on my sewing plans post a few weeks ago. Now I'm struggling to sew it.

Original Alexander McQueen 2003. Image source.

You see, it makes Burda look incredibly user friendly by comparison.

Luckily, I was warned by at least one concerned citizen that printing and taping the 50 page pattern would make my eyes cross. So, I let Staples do the work for me.  You can opt to print this pattern out on large format paper. 

That said, a headache seems inevitable with this pattern. The instructions are minimal and the origami back is challenging.  Don't believe me?

This is the front and back piece.  Take a closer look at the darts/tucks.

None of these "darts" are actually sewn as darts. You match up various lettered points and sew a complicated series of tucks. The instructions don't tell you whether you should be making the tucks with right or wrong sides of fabric together. And from what I can tell, it depends on which tuck you are sewing. You are supposed to end up with this:

The origami back

I have no idea why I didn't pick a brocade for this jacket. Perhaps it was to make it even more of a challenge, but I picked a totally inappropriate fabric. It's a wool/cotton in a fun leopard print from Paron. The problem is that it's really kind of mushy and soft, when this pattern would work better on a crisp cotton or something with a firmer hand.

My fabric from Paron

One of the reasons I chose this fabric is that the "wrong" side is very nice looking, and this is an unlined jacket.  So, while I procrastinated starting all the crazy darts and tucks, I Hong Kong finished all the easy-to-sew seams with black silk charmeuse bias tape that I made.

Wrong side with HK finish

There have already been a few moments when I thought all was lost. OK, perhaps I'm making this sound a bit too dire. I did figure out a number of things and am moving forward, taking copious notes. If I do succeed, I'll share my process. Here's a start...



Alexander McQueen Kimono Jacket
First, the single size pattern is, in fact, a European size 40. It's noted on the pattern pieces.  This roughly corresponds to a Vogue size 10. Lucky for me, this is my size.  That said, I added to the seams at the two sides just in case I need extra wiggle room.

Next, I sorted out which pattern piece is for what. In the instructions they are just numbered. Here they are:

1. Front and back piece - cut 2
2. Center back pleat - cut 1
3. Back facing - cut 2
4. Front origami piece - cut 2
5. Sleeve - cut 2
6. Lapel short side - cut 1
7. Lapel long side - cut 1

That's all for today. I'm in the middle of pleat mayhem. If I sort it out, I'll share.

I'll be back later this week with more on the Sew Sexy Sew Along. Are you sewing anything fun or challenging this week?