Saturday, November 23, 2013

Dear Self, Don't Tick Off the Indie-fanatics...

Dear Clio,

I thought we should have another little chat. I'm worried. You seem rather irritated lately about indie patterns. And, as your better judgement, I feel like I should talk a little sense into you for our own good, yours and mine.

Look, I know you like to speak your mind, but when it comes to indie patterns that is simply not done. The owners of these companies are sewists who we all feel like we know and want to succeed. They have some kind of blogosphere-sanctioned halos that deflect criticism. Breaking this taboo will not win us any friends and may actually generate hostility.

What? No! We don't want a fight! Why would we want a fight? We're not fighters. Besides, we've barely sewn any indy patterns. What would we even write about? 


My Lady Grey: One of our few Indy makes (Colette Patterns)

Speaking of which, I think it's about time we did the sewing-community-approved thing and try some. After all, in most areas of our life we support small businesses. We should give it a try.

What do you mean unproven? All patterns are a bit of a risk.

Well, yes, this is a more expensive risk, but...

See, that's what I meant about a halo. Reviewers tend to hint at problems or blame themselves rather than being up front the way they would be in critiquing Big 4 patterns. And some who have been honest have received push back in their comments. But we're experienced enough to read between the lines and take a calculated risk, unlike new sewists who don't know better and may think the problem is them.

Yeah, I feel bad for them, too. 

Anyway, back to patterns. Now, I recognize that we tend to have a point of view when it comes to what we sew and wear. I'm not suggesting that we change our style, but there must be some patterns out there that do appeal and that are actually challenging to sew, which we also like. Right?

Oh. That's not nice. There are indie patterns that aren't boxy basics and use darts and seaming to create shape. And not all of them are for girly party dresses.

Now you're just being mean. I think you're just secretly angry because indie pattern designers seem to be ignoring your style niche.

Are, too! Very mean. And scrappy.

Wow. You are such a prima donna! You know, it's really not all about you. There are people out there who like boxy shirts. And pockets. And being pretty pretty princesses. And that's awesome. Some people rock those looks; you've said so yourself!

Exactly! Diversity makes the community richer. 

OK, so how about if I just show you what I've found for us? I promise, they are all interesting patterns and some will challenge us, too. I know how you like that.

Here we go.

Ralph Pink Patterns - They're definitely edgy and not just for an indie pattern company. Seriously, check out their neck corset. In fact, they have an array of corsetry. But for our first pattern from them, I thought this cocoon coat would be the way to go:

What? Don't you wear your coat with lingerie?

It's dramatic and has interesting details. I also liked the bolero jacket and hareem pants and... and... Really, there are any number of patterns that could work in our wardrobe and would be interesting and challenging to sew. 

OK, now that I have your attention, how about the Shane Pleated Top from Named?




Named designs for a taller height, so maybe we won't have to lengthen for once. And just look at the sexy open sides on this top... 



Yeah, I knew you'd like that.  It opens up all kinds of possibilities for the use of fun or lacy under layers... or not. And it really looks luxe, doesn't it?

Anyway, lastly, I think we need the Bombshell Swimsuit.



Yeah, I'm also not really sure if Closet Case Files counts as an indie pattern company, but at the end of the day do we care?

Exactly! The style is awesome and seems to have flattered just about every single sewist who made it last summer, regardless of their skill level and body type. So, it seems like a real winner. We'll make it into a fabulous bikini a la Norma Kamali when this summer rolls around.

Anyway, that's what I found to get us started. Maybe other people will recommend additional patterns for us. But they'll have to keep in mind that I've promised you that you can be honest about what we do and don't like.

This will be fun. Trust me. I'll even do all the taping together of pattern pieces for us if you can find some scotch tape. Deal?? And yes, I agree. We will review any indie patterns we make the same as if they were Big Four or Burda. After all, they are businesses. Honest feedback from consumers will help them improve their products, practices and customer experience. And more good companies competing for our business is good for the whole sewing community.

Love,
Clio's Better Judgement


PS -  I'm really proud that you didn't make that snarky comment about Espresso not having any pockets. Maybe I'm having a good influence on you after all.

60 comments:

Clio said...

The bombshell truly is a fabulous pattern. A little tricky to grade between sizes, but the stretch makes it very forgiving. I agree about the halo. I've seen so many excellent reviews of Sewaholic's Alma Blouse. When I bought it and muslined it, the sleeve heads were the same front and back. I tried to use them as is and it looked and felt so terrible. It is a nice pattern once you fix the sleeve heads. I couldn't believe that no one had thought to mention that in their reviews. (A few people have mentioned it since then).

Clio said...

Ha! I love a little sass in my blog feed.

Clio said...

That's exactly what I meant! Talking to people, they mention drafting issues or other problems, but then the reviews don't mention it. It must be SO frustrating and confusing to new sewists. I mean, I get it: we want these businesses to succeed and it's harder to
be frank when you feel like you know the person behind the business. But a little tough love would probably do everyone some good.



Bombshell - Yeah, this is why I am thinking bikini - that way I can just use one size for my top and another for my bottom.

Clio said...

We aim to please, both me and my better judgement. ;-)

Clio said...

It is strange when people wax poetic about indies, but are brutal on the Big 4/Burda. I started sewing with both, and I veered towards indie patterns because it felt nice to be part of a community (and to support someone's dream). Now that I'm 4+ years in, I've found that I still enjoy sewing with indies, but the Big 4 also offer a range of styles that appeal to me (and at so much cheaper a price!). Also, you and I chatted about this already, but after meeting some of the ladies and gents who work at the Big 4 I found that they had as much a passion and love for sewing as indie owners do (and years of experience in the industry to boot).



I admit, I didn't give honest reviews of indies at first because everyone else LOVED THEM SO MUCH and found nothing wrong with them that I was convinced I was doing something wrong. Now I write honest reviews. I like supporting small businesses, but they also need to provide a good product otherwise why am I paying $10-15 more for drafting errors and poor instructions (and, in some cases, very simple designs)? I also would like to think I'm saving others a headache by pointing out the difficulties I had with a pattern. It's really frustrating to have pattern issues that are beyond your control and then finding reviews where no one else brings up these issues. This can be done in a thoughtful way and doesn't have to be mean.

Clio said...

I have tried a corset pattern and a dress pattern from Ralph Pink. The pattern was very complex, not for a novice sewer, but it printed and scaled beautifully and the seams match perfectly. The instructions were beautifully illustrated and customer service was good. A few things that I didn't like were the lack of waistline markings on the corset pattern, and the dress came in only one size.

Clio said...

Yes, yes, exactly! I had a very similar experience early on and I felt like the failure must be mine or there must be something weird with my body. So, I probably veered toward Big 4/Burda because at least there was honest (at times brutal) feedback and they were much less expensive, so I didn't feel so ripped off when a pattern didn't work for me. I agree with you about Big 4 - there are great professionals at work there who actually read our blogs and PR.

Clio said...

Yeah, the limited sizing is a drawback for some of the patterns. To me, the challenging patterns are a huge plus! And I actually looked at the instructions and was thoroughly impressed. How is it that this brand is barely mentioned in the sewing blogosphere?

Clio said...

I run hot and cold with Indies. But then again I run that way with the big 4 too! I've had luck with Sewaholic, Closet Case Files and the one Lolita that fits my life. I've had some very good luck with some children's indie designers- and do a bit of test sewing for one. I have my share of duds in my downloaded pattern file though!

Clio said...

Thanks - 2 indy companies I hadn't heard of
If you look at comments on the burdastyle blog, they are so negative you would expect Burda to go out of business anyday. And Vogue Simplicity etc issues new patterns - pattern review message board is either negative or bored "yawn" or my favorite the one that makes me roll my eyes - copies of RTW top sellers get reactions of OMG what are they thinking Nobody would wear that

Clio said...

Yep, agreed! I guess that is why it surprizes me that some of the very very basic indie patterns that would get a yawn if they were Big 4 seem to go viral. I just kind of scratch my head wondering if, for example, Colette's Laurel shift dress is somehow better or different than any of the Burda shift dresses that we love to slam as sack dresses.



And I kind of love the OMG what are they thinking patterns because they are usually for really unique things, even if they are not my style. My pattern collection looks like the island of misfit toys.

Clio said...

I have no experience with the kids indie patterns, but they do look cute.



I actually think that most people probably run hot and cold with indies as well as big 4. But it just seems like we are reluctant to say it.

Clio said...

Hear hear! Why do we think Indy designers will get upset if we speak our minds and the peeps at Burda and the Big 4 will not? Courtesy and honesty are a great mix ( and a little bit of clever snarkiness is very entertaining!)

I'm a burda devotee, but I do like the look of a select few Indy patterns. I'm finally hailing down the collette macaron bandwagon ( haven't hopped on yet, the pattern is still uncut....

-sewingelle

Clio said...

Brava Darling Brava!
A daring post to write. One takes ones life in one's hands criticizing indies these days. Ask Debbie Cook. What a kerfuffle that whole thing was/is/whatever.


As for my own experience, I have had a good experience with Sewaholic's Renfrew (which is just a simple t-shirt with great instructions), Sewaholic's Minoru. and Loes Hinse Cruise Pants (which fit perfectly out of the package I lurve them). I agree, most people wouldn't look twice at some of the indie patterns if McButtvogue produced them. I find some of the indies really quite unattractive, in particular the skirt named after a bird, it is IMO stupid looking and ugly. Many people seem to love it. I don't get it.


I promise that I too, will do honest reviews of indie patterns. Flame wars be damned.


PS-Ralph Pink patterns, wow!

Clio said...

I don't know that they're exactly 'indie', but I've become interested in Lekala patterns. A lot of the designs have interesting details, and I love that it drafts to my measurements. I've only tried skirts so far - I'm curious to see how it handles the 6 inch difference between my high bust and full bust.

Clio said...

I thought you were very brave bring up this topic, but then I remembered that you are protected by trampling elephants. Maybe you should send a couple to Debbie. Here is a link to the Monty Python sketch that illustrates why you aren't allowed to say anything uncomplimentary about indie patterns
http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=mi2sUcVkm9E&desktop_uri=%2Fwatch%3Fv%3Dmi2sUcVkm9E

Clio said...

superfrigginawesome excellent post.
(that's what mary poppins always meant to say)


i have definitely waxed poetical about indies! but, there are some that truly deserve it--the gals at BHL, and i cannot WAIT for you to try ralph pink-- i admit, it's harder to be critical of indies for exactly the excellent points you raised. like a glass of fine wine.


(i'm drinking, btw).


i just tend to say nothing if the style doesn't suit me- but now that i know more, i feel i have to say something if i run across a pattern problem, whatever size the company. it cuts both ways though--i recently realized the extra inch in my hips has pushed me back into swayback adjustments, so the bumps in my anna bodice were me and not the pattern! we've just all got to be okay with criticism and make ourselves better for it.


and then we can work on world peace and shite.

Clio said...

I would think that they would all want honest feedback. For indies especially at the beginning while they are a start up, rather than everyone being polite in the blogosphere and then telling their friends to beware (which is what happens).

Clio said...

I lurve Ralph Pink patterns. I've got several of them but have yet to actually sew them up! Real street appeal I do think.
And yes, indie pattern designers are kinda out of limits when it comes to criticism. I think it's because there's a visible person put out there as being the person behind the patterns, so it seems cruel to say well, actually - your patterns are lousily drafted. Whereas the big 4 and Burda don't have a human front, so they must be a heartless corporation, right? We forget that there are people behind the big 4 too, pouring their heart and soul into the job without any of the perceived glamour of an indie. Nice post :)

Clio said...

Yeah, how exactly had I never heard of Ralph Pink before a few weeks ago??? It's totally up my alley style-wise.

Exactly! I agree - I was surprised to learn that aside from the licensed patterns (ie BMV designer patterns, Simplicity Project Runway ones, etc) there is just one designer at each of the Big four. We forget that. But I do think that a business is a business, not a person. And we should be able to critique any product that we purchase without feeling like there would be retaliation, either from the company or other sewists. Anyway, I plan to be honest. Let's see how it goes!

Clio said...

I'm drinking, too. LOL So we can toast world peace and mary poppins and shite together.

I totally agree - and lets face it, there is no "one size fits/flatters all" pattern out there. So the best we can do is observe and report. Over time, trends emerge when many people review a pattern. So, one person with one issue is just that. And many people with the same issue points to a larger problem with a pattern, don't you think?

Clio said...

I'd be interested with your experience with Lekala! I noticed they have a point of view.

Clio said...

. I don't have anything to add, just wanted to say great discussion! Thanks.

Clio said...

Yeah, that was unreal. If someone like Debbie Cook can't post some honest feedback, well, the rest of us are screwed.



Sewaholic seems to be really high quality for fitting and directions. I wavered back and forth about including the Cordova jacket in this post. I like the peplum/flanges, but I would have to change so many other things to make it more my style that I decided not to get it at this time. I honestly do wish that there were more indie patterns that were more my style.



The more of us who write thorough reviews, the more it will be normal, right? That's what I am hoping because right now I can't tell the good from the bad.

Clio said...

Why thank you! And thank you to everyone who has contributed! I love this kind of back and forth.

Clio said...

There really is a Monty Python skit for every occasion, isn't there?



Foes of Clio be warned! Ha! My fingers are crossed that I won't have to set the Tramples loose on anyone. But oh my, what utter nonsense! And not good for anyone at all.

Clio said...

Excellent post. Pockets and princess dresses indeed.

Should you find yourself searching for a topic for our next foray into Indie Pattern controversy...I'm always fascinated by those blog posts that start "such and such Indie pattern company has generously gifted me their new pattern to test". To me this always reads as "I've spent hours of my time sewing and testing a pattern for a commercial organisation and am now advertising the pattern on my blog for the measly cost of the pattern". So, I wonder if there is a more hard nosed commercial arrangement behind it all. I rather hope so as I'm with the Yarn Harlot on this one...

http://www.yarnharlot.ca/blog/archives/2011/12/06/unexpectedly_controversial.html

Clio said...

Those Named and Ralph Pink patterns really appeal to me but I've yet to try one. In fact I haven't sewn that many indie patterns - they're often selling a style I already have amongst my big 4 / Burda patterns or are designed for a different body shape to mine. For the few I've used, I've tried to blog honestly about my sewing experience, but the expectation seems to be that you must love everything about an indie pattern, and no gush is too great. The double standards must drive the big 4 / Burda pattern designers nuts!

Clio said...

I have a hard time buying into the Indie patterns as well. I've had just as much luck as not when I've sewn with them, so in my mind, they're pretty much on par with any other pattern company out there. I do like supporting small business, but I'm not going to sew styles that I don't like or suit me or that I know aren't patterned to a fit model that is going to take tons of alterations (for example, I love Sewaholic's designs, but I'm the opposite of pear shaped so I've never bought anything form them).

Clio said...

Well, I'll let you know how it goes. ;-)

It's kind of like how anything labeled "organic" has a health halo. And yet, organic doesn't taste any better than standard.

I haven't sewn many indies for the same reasons you mention - mostly style. Also, given the cost, I have to be pretty sure that I would sew these pretty quickly, unlike Burda or Big 4 which I am happy to build up in my stash because they are inexpensive in general.

Clio said...

Ha! I'm sure I'll court all the controversy I need when I start reviewing what I've sewn!



But yes, that yarnharlot post was an interesting one, wasn't it? By and large, I agreed with her commentary as it applied to both knitting and sewing. There is a difference between professional and enthusiast, and I don't see that as being a bad thing at all. Both can contribute in many different ways to the creative community.

Clio said...

That's what I anticipate - some winners, some not. We shall see.



Funny you mention Sewaholic, since I have the opposite problem - I'm pear shaped but the style is just not me. I wish there was a Sewaholic pattern that fit my style so I could give it a try. But, as you say, I'm not going to sew styles that I don't love.

Clio said...

Thank you! But then again, I love Amazon and am very impressed with Starbucks - so I'm not in the camp of small business is always better.
I have used some indie patterns, the latest being Emery by Christine Haynes, but then I know her personally and wanted to support her for that reason. Also, for a very simple dress it is well designed and the pattern is well written. Her neckline is lovely.
Also, I'm a fan of Gertie Hersch, bought her book, took craftsy classes and yes made a stunning coat - that was printed by Butterick. So yeah, good indie designers will go with the bigs.

I'm off to make another Renfrew right now, I have many T shirt patterns, she nailed this one. But Indie does not necessarily mean good.

Clio said...

Thanks for the links! I've been rather falling out of love with Burda and Vogue of late (although December Burda was so much better) and yet all the popular indies have a very different style to the sort of thing that I like to make. I keep telling myself that fashion goes in cycles and in a year or two I'll be loving it all again, but the lack of appealing patterns does affect how much I sew so it's great to know about these.

Clio said...

Thanks for introducing me to a couple of new pattern companies! And I really like this post, too. I was nurtured on Vogue designer patterns from my infancy, and still love them. I discovered Burda about 3 years ago and haven't looked back (I do have to sew for 3 trendy teens, and Burda really hits the spot on that account), and I have purchased from and tried 3 different indie companies. Each company is different, catering to different niches, and they seem to fit their respective niches well. I think it's a good thing to support the "little guy", if you truly believe in what they stand for/are selling. And I also think its fabulous to say it's not for me after trying them out. So review away, Clio! Political correctness in sewing/fashion was never the norm, so why should it be any different about pattern companies? If a pattern is lousy, we should be able to say so and the shocked little sewista cliques be damned. I guess my better judgement is on holiday today. haha!!

Clio said...

Indeed! I wish indie-pattern companies all the luck in the world, but I honestly don't purchase many of them. I tend to use patterns as a jumping off point anyway- I rarely follow them exactly or make repeats, so I stash the cheapo big 4 when they are on sale. I bought a few of the Hot Patterns in the beginning (a line which Debbie Cook rocks) but they didn't seem to work on me- too many adjustments when I don't think of myself as hard to fit. (shrug) May all the Tramplers rest peacefully!

Clio said...

More and more I use patterns as a jumping off point too. So, why start with something expensive. I had a somewhat similar experience with HP - they just didn't work for me.

Clio said...

I think our better judgements are off somewhere having mojitos together. Honestly, I think you and I have a lot of overlap in our tastes in patterns. I love the Vogue designers and Burda too.

I agree about there being a lot of different niches. One of the reasons I've mostly been an outside observer is that I haven't really found the one catering to me.

Clio said...

I've felt the same way about the popular indies. But I also recently realized that not only does fashion go in cycles, but my tastes do, too. Or they change. I flipped through some of my older Burdas and found patterns that I really liked that I don't even remember seeing before. I'm sure I dismissed them because they were too challenging or didn't appeal at the time.

Clio said...

Excellent point about Marfy - why do I always forget about them?? My understanding is that they are distributed by BMV, but that's it.



You actually summed up a number of things that I've been thinking about - especially point 2 and point 7. I recently realized that for me V1247 (my silk snake print top) fills the place in my wardrobe/sewing that the Scout tee fills for others, and I wonder how much my willingness and ability to spend more time on each project plays into my decisions compared to those who may not have the time or inclination to spend so much time per garment or who prefer higher output than I manage. Or those who are beginners and may have a few frustrating experiences and then sew a basic indie tee and finally have success thanks to (perhaps) better/more accessible instructions, sew alongs and on line tutorials specific to that pattern.



Point 6 - I look forward to your reviews because I think you always manage to highlight the good - even when it's not your style - and make light of the stinkers. And you do it in a "here's what I think, what do you think?" way that invites differences of opinion. It will be a sad day if you ever stop writing things like "ruffle frump" and my all-time favorite "My crotch is exploding!" shorts. ;-)

Clio said...

PS - Does it also surprise you that people complain about the cost of BurdaStyle? You get a huge number of patterns for $90/yr and when I work it out to how many patterns I like in a year it's a totally acceptable per-pattern-I-like cost.

Clio said...

Bigger isn't always better, but neither is smaller always better. And I think (hope) there is room for both.

Clio said...

but i a AM A PRETTY PRETTY PRINCESS :-D

Clio said...

You are a pretty pretty princess of power!! ;-)

Clio said...

Exactly!

Clio said...

it's especially difficult because debbie's feedback seemed, to me, to be honest, and as much about her own personal tastes as anything. isn't that what we are all here for, anyway?

Clio said...

in all honesty, i think the entire point of the community we all love so much is to hear the range of opinions. be honest, and let everyone support the ones which work out for them - after all, we are well past the days where there were only one or two indies in the game. we are practically spoiled for choice by now! so of course people are going to have different reactions.

Clio said...

I thought Debbie's review was fair and honest, and, ironically, in the end she concluded that she really liked the dress.

Elle - I'm betting she now feels like she wants to take a page from your playbook by 'setting fire to it in her driveway and then driving over it in her car and lawn mower and snow blower'. I keep picturing snowblowing scraps of dress and cracking up.

Clio said...

YES I tend to talk too much when I encounter problems, and if it's an indie company then I feel terribly guilty because the likelihood of them seeing it is very high... but it's still true and maybe someone else can benefit from it? And really there's nothing I hate more than seeing terrible patterns/instructions being glossed over by bloggers because they're supposed to like it for some silly reason.

Clio said...

LOL, yeah. My life doesn't really resemble Mad Men either. Have you considered Style Arc? They have loads of work appropriate patterns.

Clio said...

I've actually sewn a few patterns that I knew had an issue going in. But since someone else reviewed it and told me how to fix it, it wasn't a problem. So, I've definitely benefited, but so too has the pattern company, because they then had my successful review. I hope that the smart indies will take it on the chin and move on a little wiser.

Clio said...

Totally agree - I find the cost of Burda very reasonable, because I feel like I am getting a fashion magazine plus a bunch of patterns each month. There is usually at least one pattern I like each month, but it gets balanced by other months where I like a lot more patterns. And I can always use patterns to make things for my sister as well, so I find it a very affordable way to get a lot of on-trend patterns at reasonable price. And I often find I go back and use patterns I hadn't considered originally, so it is good to have the other patterns in my collection too. I had considered trying to get subscriptions to some of the other international magazines, but the costs of those (due to shipping and conversion of US$ to Euros) are a bit more prohibitive.

Clio said...

I love Style Arc. I think they have clearly defined their target market, rather than trying to please everyone. I love their single size patterns because it keeps the pattern markings clear. I love the different seam allowances, depending on the seam type. Their styles suit my taste and lifestyle. Their instructions are good enough, and if sometimes my head hurts trying to figure out how the garment goes together that is part of the fun. I'm looking at you, Marni jacket! Not everyone is going to agree with me about all those things.

Clio said...

I think the client service at HP is good - but the patterns are designed for tall-ish people who are not small-boned (or overly slim). There's so much ease in those patterns I could go down 2 sizes and it still wouldn't fit. I guess that's why there are so many different pattern companies - they can't all work for everyone.

Clio said...

You should email her and make some suggestions (nicely of course)! I mean, it can't hurt, right?

Clio said...

I first read this post when it was published and didn't understand it - of course one can write an honest opinion about an indie pattern as long as one isn't rude and makes personal attacks! Or so I thought... Oh dear, I sooo didn't understand the reference to the "discussion" that has been going on over at Debbie's blog (for some strange reason it wasn't in my reading list). Went through it this morning, and suddenly your post made a whole lot of sense =) Don't tick them off indeed! ;)
Seriously, regarding your qualms and ideas; of course no pattern is for everyone, style- and fit-preferations will always vary. I for one would love to see what you'd make with Named - nothing in their shop is a style I'd wear, but I can see you rocking the Shane pleated top!
If I had a pattern company (hey, a girl can dream! ;) ) I'd like to think I'd appreciate honest reviews that would make it easier for people to turn out wearable garments. As you said, knowing there's certain issues takes the edge off them and makes the process smoother. Any pattern can after all be a "sew right out of the envelope" for one person and a "had to totally re-draft it to make it work for me" for another.

Clio said...

Actually, I didn't write this post as a reaction to that, but it made it all the more timely. I had drafted it several weeks ago at a point when I had become aware that what I was seeing in reviews and hearing in person were very different stories. And I noticed in the comments of those who were a bit more forthcoming about issues that there was some pushback from readers (not the pattern companies). I totally understand wanting to support small businesses, but IMHO a little tough love can improve a business, especially in the start up phase. So, I wanted to encourage that and pledge to do it myself.

Clio said...

Ha! She would have to change her entire customer base if she started drafting to my taste. It wouldn't really be a wise business move for her!

Clio said...

You are perhaps too young for the target demographic, but Park Bench Patterns have a special place in my heart. I own many of them -- they are quirky and weird and easy to sew -- because of the great ease built into them, instructions include ways to adjust personal wearing ease, rather than relying on tracing off multiple sizes (they come printed on a tough white paper). Every time I wear a particular jacket/blouse, strangers come up to me and tell me how much they like it. I finally gifted a pair of wide-legged trousers to the teacher who threatened to knock me down in the school hallway and take them off me, she liked them so much.


And let me sing high praise for the wonders of Folkwear patterns ... I started using them in the late 1970s, in a college theatrical costume workroom. Started buying them for myself, then they went out of business. When I saw that the company had started up again under the aegis of Taunton Press, I wept for joy. Of particular use through the years have been the Walking Skirt, the Japanese Field Clothing, the Armistice Blouse, Gibson Girl Blouse, Edwardian Underthings.

Clio said...

Oh, and I completely forgot to recommend The Sewing Workshop! Again, aimed at an older audience, but the Plaza Pant and Jacket are wonderful for summer wear -- loose and floaty, and the pants have that half-elastic waist that lets you avoid inserting any closures while still maintaining a relatively narrow pant leg. I own almost all of their patterns, too.