This last week and weekend was major organization time for all my upcoming projects. Fabric was prepped, notions were purchased, tools were assembled... Then I got distracted by the BMV pattern sale, and it's taking all my effort to stay the course. (Seriously, I've got an unhealthy obsession with M6746, an ill-advised pattern for a host of reasons.) But back to the plan!
I'm going to be delving into the knitty gritty of my projects this week, starting with my second linen trousers. They are well underway and there is a lot to tell. But first, did you see the awesome guest post on linen that Carolyn wrote for Did You Make That? LOTS of good info there. Now on to my trousers...
After pre-washing, the blue linen looked so much like denim, that I've decided to make these trousers - another version of Burda 06/2011 #114 but with a zipper fly - a bit more jeans inspired.
Last week, I bought gold top stitching thread and a jeans button. I also found a jumbo snap in my stash which I may use instead of the button. We'll see. And this time I found a fun striped cotton remnant in my remnant bin to use for the fly shield and underlap.
I decided to underline, rather than line, this pair of trousers. I can tell just from cutting and pressing that this linen is going to be even more prone to growing than the red linen. So, the underlining (I hope) will add some desired stability.
Once I decided to underline, it seemed entirely reasonable to go the full monte and make a faux Hong Kong seam finishing (click for instructions) on the inseams. This is more work on the front end of the project, but less finishing work at the end. This is what one of the leg pieces looks like with my kiwi green underlining. Once the seam is sewn, I won't have any finishing to do.
On the outseams, I decided to do a jeans inspired flat felled seam. I had to change the order of construction to sew the outseams first in order to do this. There is more than one way to sew a flat felled seam. I prefer the method where you sew wrong sides together so that the seam allowance is folded over and top stitched down on the outside.*Oh, look! Just to make things convenient for me, Steph C has posted a flat felled seam tutorial today! *
Anyway, now my outseams are neatly finished too, with the seam allowances of both the linen and underlining enclosed in the seam.
Next I have to sew the fly and decide if I want to add jeans-like patch pockets to the back. I think yes. And that's where the linen "jeans" trousers stand.
Oh! On an entirely different note and before you ask, I did finish the lining of my red linen pants. The color is not very accurate in this picture - the lace is actually a buttery yellow and the lining is more lemony. I couldn't really find a contrasting lace that I loved, but wanted to get this done since it's been HOT here in the Northeast and I want to get these pants into rotation ASAP. Anyway, now I can wear my red linen pants without shame.
I have two other sewing WIP's and some knitting, too. So stay tuned since it's a busy busy week!
After pre-washing, the blue linen looked so much like denim, that I've decided to make these trousers - another version of Burda 06/2011 #114 but with a zipper fly - a bit more jeans inspired.
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| Parts assembled |
Last week, I bought gold top stitching thread and a jeans button. I also found a jumbo snap in my stash which I may use instead of the button. We'll see. And this time I found a fun striped cotton remnant in my remnant bin to use for the fly shield and underlap.
I decided to underline, rather than line, this pair of trousers. I can tell just from cutting and pressing that this linen is going to be even more prone to growing than the red linen. So, the underlining (I hope) will add some desired stability.
Once I decided to underline, it seemed entirely reasonable to go the full monte and make a faux Hong Kong seam finishing (click for instructions) on the inseams. This is more work on the front end of the project, but less finishing work at the end. This is what one of the leg pieces looks like with my kiwi green underlining. Once the seam is sewn, I won't have any finishing to do.
 |
| Faux Hong Kong seam underlining |
On the outseams, I decided to do a jeans inspired flat felled seam. I had to change the order of construction to sew the outseams first in order to do this. There is more than one way to sew a flat felled seam. I prefer the method where you sew wrong sides together so that the seam allowance is folded over and top stitched down on the outside.*Oh, look! Just to make things convenient for me, Steph C has posted a flat felled seam tutorial today! *
 |
| My flat felled seam. Seriously, doesn't this look like denim? |
Next I have to sew the fly and decide if I want to add jeans-like patch pockets to the back. I think yes. And that's where the linen "jeans" trousers stand.
Oh! On an entirely different note and before you ask, I did finish the lining of my red linen pants. The color is not very accurate in this picture - the lace is actually a buttery yellow and the lining is more lemony. I couldn't really find a contrasting lace that I loved, but wanted to get this done since it's been HOT here in the Northeast and I want to get these pants into rotation ASAP. Anyway, now I can wear my red linen pants without shame.
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| Lining hem finished! |
13 comments:
Wow, that linen is indistinguishable from denim. Lovely!
you're making me think i should spare a weekend and do a lot of prep - so that when i am not completely exhausted (during the week) or running around the garden (at the weekends) i can actually have a little sewing fun. :-)
Right!?!? It's uncanny.
Totally on a roll!
It was well worth it! I feel like I am all set with 3 different projects and can then do whatever I feel like doing to move one project forward or another one if I feel in the mood for a different task. I think it;s the only way I'll get thru simultaneous projects.
Linen jeans sounds so awesome, I can't wait to see the finished product. M6746 is intriguing... I can't decide whether it looks really cool or if it looks like when you get your dress caught in your panties after going to the bathroom... With some patterns there is a really fine line between something looking unique or like a mistake!
Right?!?!? I'm utterly fascinated by it. But the neck looks wonky in every single photo and the 10 inches of ease in the bust worries me. Not to mention the instruction "twist hemline for desired length" is troubling...
Awesome finishing work. And I love that you swing from wearing an unhemmed lining to pre-finished side seams.
ps. In your last post, I loved the grey textures of sweater and bag and brickwork path together. Nice photos, Phin!
Mmmmm.... denim-look linen. How yummy is that!? Can't wait to see your new trousers. And re: underlining linen: I've used silk organza and lightweight cotton, and my verdict comes down on the side of the organza. For some reason it prevents the linen from growing and wrinkling a lot better than the cotton underlining. I've not made a pair of silk-underlined linen trousers yet, though, but it's my choice for dresses and skirts! Love your contrasting stripes. So pretty!
Thanks! Funny, I actually don't really love patterned fabric on myself, but I adore texture and tend to layer texture on texture when I dress.
Hmmm. I had briefly considered organza, but thought it might be too warm for summer wear. That's one of the reasons I went with cotton. We'll see how it turns out. I would guess that the cotton will change the hand of the linen more than organza would.
10 inches of ease in the bust with that low of a neckline is craaazy. Proceed with caution!
Look at you go! These are going to be great!
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