Monday, June 3, 2013

WIP Week: Linen "Jeans" Trousers

This last week and weekend was major organization time for all my upcoming projects.  Fabric was prepped, notions were purchased, tools were assembled... Then I got distracted by the BMV pattern sale, and it's taking all my effort to stay the course. (Seriously, I've got an unhealthy obsession with M6746, an ill-advised pattern for a host of reasons.) But back to the plan!

I'm going to be delving into the knitty gritty of my projects this week, starting with my second linen trousers. They are well underway and there is a lot to tell. But first, did you see the awesome guest post on linen that Carolyn wrote for Did You Make That? LOTS of good info there. Now on to my trousers...

After pre-washing, the blue linen looked so much like denim, that I've decided to make these trousers - another version of Burda 06/2011 #114 but with a zipper fly - a bit more jeans inspired. 


Parts assembled

Last week, I bought gold top stitching thread and a jeans button. I also found a jumbo snap in my stash which I may use instead of the button. We'll see. And this time I found a fun striped cotton remnant in my remnant bin to use for the fly shield and underlap.

I decided to underline, rather than line, this pair of trousers.  I can tell just from cutting and pressing that this linen is going to be even more prone to growing than the red linen. So, the underlining (I hope) will add some desired stability.

Once I decided to underline, it seemed entirely reasonable to go the full monte and make a faux Hong Kong seam finishing (click for instructions) on the inseams. This is more work on the front end of the project, but less finishing work at the end.  This is what one of the leg pieces looks like with my kiwi green underlining. Once the seam is sewn, I won't have any finishing to do.


Faux Hong Kong seam underlining

On the outseams, I decided to do a jeans inspired flat felled seam. I had to change the order of construction to sew the outseams first in order to do this.  There is more than one way to sew a flat felled seam. I prefer the method where you sew wrong sides together so that the seam allowance is folded over and top stitched down on the outside.*Oh, look! Just to make things convenient for me, Steph C has posted a flat felled seam tutorial today! *

My flat felled seam. Seriously, doesn't this look like denim?
Anyway, now my outseams are neatly finished too, with the seam allowances of both the linen and underlining enclosed in the seam. 

Next I have to sew the fly and decide if I want to add jeans-like patch pockets to the back. I think yes. And that's where the linen "jeans" trousers stand.

Oh! On an entirely different note and before you ask, I did finish the lining of my red linen pants. The color is not very accurate in this picture - the lace is actually a buttery yellow and the lining is more lemony. I couldn't really find a contrasting lace that I loved, but wanted to get this done since it's been HOT here in the Northeast and I want to get these pants into rotation ASAP. Anyway, now I can wear my red linen pants without shame.


Lining hem finished!
I have two other sewing WIP's and some knitting, too. So stay tuned since it's a busy busy week!