OK, this is possibly the post in which I shock and horrify the people who know more about working with leather than I do by talking about how I used my iron over the weekend.
Whenever I start a new project I always try scorching a scrap of the fabric. Does that sound crazy? Maybe it is, but I like to know how hot an iron my fabric can take before I try to press the actual project. So, I start on low and slowly nudge the heat ever higher. I usually use a silk organza pressing cloth and a seam roll and tailor's ham. No exceptions here. And - guess what - the leather didn't scorch even with a very hot iron.
After establishing that I could safely press my leather, I began testing a few fusibles. This wasn't so far off the reservation since it had been suggested in my book on leather, and I'm very pro-interfacing in general. I use a lot more than called for in patterns, and I've never been unhappy that I interfaced a zipper or waist or armscye or any other stress point on a garment. Interfacing often makes it easier to sew on a zipper, and I find that it adds to a neater overall look in a finished garment.
I also learned to appreciate hair canvas when I sewed my Lady Grey Jacket last winter - it adds body and shape to the front of the jacket and the lapels and collar. So, I figured that my leather jacket deserved the same treatment.
In the end, I decided to use black Pro-Tricot Deluxe fusible interfacing for the zipper areas. I normally use this for knits, but it also is fine for leather according to the handy instructions that came with it. And I used fusible hair canvas that I bought at Steinlauf & Stoller for the front, side front and lapel pieces. I like that it adds some body to the leather and, I hope, will help the front shaping.
So, now that the bones are in place, so to speak, I'm ready for zipper insertion. If you recall, when I first tried doing this on muslin, I messed up three times. So, I will be slow and steady making sure I get it right the first time!
Later in the week, we'll talk more about seams and sewing machines. Stay tuned.
Whenever I start a new project I always try scorching a scrap of the fabric. Does that sound crazy? Maybe it is, but I like to know how hot an iron my fabric can take before I try to press the actual project. So, I start on low and slowly nudge the heat ever higher. I usually use a silk organza pressing cloth and a seam roll and tailor's ham. No exceptions here. And - guess what - the leather didn't scorch even with a very hot iron.
After establishing that I could safely press my leather, I began testing a few fusibles. This wasn't so far off the reservation since it had been suggested in my book on leather, and I'm very pro-interfacing in general. I use a lot more than called for in patterns, and I've never been unhappy that I interfaced a zipper or waist or armscye or any other stress point on a garment. Interfacing often makes it easier to sew on a zipper, and I find that it adds to a neater overall look in a finished garment.
I also learned to appreciate hair canvas when I sewed my Lady Grey Jacket last winter - it adds body and shape to the front of the jacket and the lapels and collar. So, I figured that my leather jacket deserved the same treatment.
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| I'm not sure you can see the black interfacing on this, but it's there. |
In the end, I decided to use black Pro-Tricot Deluxe fusible interfacing for the zipper areas. I normally use this for knits, but it also is fine for leather according to the handy instructions that came with it. And I used fusible hair canvas that I bought at Steinlauf & Stoller for the front, side front and lapel pieces. I like that it adds some body to the leather and, I hope, will help the front shaping.
So, now that the bones are in place, so to speak, I'm ready for zipper insertion. If you recall, when I first tried doing this on muslin, I messed up three times. So, I will be slow and steady making sure I get it right the first time!
Later in the week, we'll talk more about seams and sewing machines. Stay tuned.
