Monday, March 5, 2012

Leather Jacket Muslin 1.0

I'd like to say I had spent all weekend sewing, but that would be a gross exaggeration. I arrived home from LA like an exhausted starlet and proceeded to loaf around the house all weekend. The only sewing to mention was that muslin 1.0 for my leather jacket (Burda 07-2010-118/119) is looking pretty good, so an accomplishment despite my best efforts at being lazy.

Front: very not bad

I'm basically happy with how the lapels and front are fitting. I think leather will be a bit bulkier than the denim muslin. So I'll probably let things out just a skootch so I have some extra ease. Honestly, this jacket needs to be pretty fitted to look good, but I don't want it skin tight.

The side view shows a little bit of wrinkling from the bust to the hip, which I didn't notice while on, but will investigate. I have room to let out the princess seam at the bust if needed.

Side: A few drag lines from bust to peplum

As for the back, I tested out both with and without the peplum. Peplum wins. And the back needs to be taken in a bit at the shoulder blades, which is normal for me. I've noticed that the drag lines from the bust seem to extend around to the peplum. So, I'm wondering if the solution might be just to let that seam out a little bit.

Back: The peplum is cute, despite looking like a Thanksgiving decoration in brown.

The only other alteration that is truly evident to me at this point is that I need to lengthen the jacket by 1-2" since the waist is currently above my waistline. Perhaps it needs a little length at the hem. I didn't press or pin up the hemline, so in the pictures you are looking at the unhemmed length.

You've probably noticed that my muslin has no sleeves. Because the fit of the bodice affects the fit of the sleeve, it's a waste of time to set in a sleeve before you've really worked out how the bodice should fit both across the front and back. So, this was quite deliberate and not just a symptom of my lazy weekend.

Anyway, stay tuned. Sleeves are next and then I have some truly ugly faux leather to do a more refined muslin, testing out how I plan to sew on the actual leather. Organizing supplies and buying leather are also in the near future. 


Karin said...

Wow, even muslin 1.0 looks good! This is a great project.

Tia Dia said...

I love that peplum! Are you sure you want to add a little more ease? Kay the Sewing Lawyer was really surprised at how snug the muslin for leather jacket was when she was working on it with Kathryn Brenne, but in the end was happy that it was so snug, because the leather will form and stretch with wear. It looks good! I can't wait to see it finished!

Anonymous said...

For a first muslin that looks absolutely amazing. Only minor tweaks, I think.

T. Sedai said...

Looks great for a first muslin! And yay for the peplum - I like it! I agree that adding length will be good, especially if this is the un-hemmed version.

poppykettle said...

Yup - the peplum wins hands down. And I think the front neckline of the jacket really suits!

Tanit-Isis said...

I was going to say it looks like you may need a bit more room around the hips (and maybe bust) but Tia Dia may be right, leather does stretch more than denim... Hmm.

Looks GREAT!

Gabrielle said...

Looking great - and I love the peplum. This is going to be such a fab jacket!

Clio said...

Thanks everyone!

@ Tia Dia and Tanit-Isis - Yeah, see I'm just not sure how much ease I'll need/want in leather. And basically not worth fine-tuning the hip until I've lengthened above the waist since that will change where things hit.

jillnjosh said...

Consider the fact that the weight of the peplum might be causing the drag lines on the bust.

Also consider that inserting the sleeves might affect the drag lines on the bust.

Can't wait to see the progression.

The Slapdash Sewist said...

That is looking good! I am partial to peplums so I am biased, but I think you made the right call. It's going to be a great detail!

Michele | Sequined Aspahult Studio said...

super cute back!

Clio said...

@ JillnJosh - that's a really good insight since the jacket doesn't feel tight. hmmm.