Monday, September 24, 2012

Autumn: White Pants Reveal, ya know, 'cause I'm a Jean-ius that way.

So, just in time for my favorite season, here is my completely unseasonable pants reveal!

White pants!

I think we can all take a moment to praise the sewing goddess for the existence of the aptly named Kenneth King.

I stole this pose from Tanit-Isis.


I'm pretty thrilled with these pants, even if they are out of season by a few weeks. I keep hoping for Indian Summer so I can wear them, but alas, it doesn't look like it's in the cards. Here are the finer points.
 
If you have RTW pants that you really like, KK's Jean-ius Pants Class on Craftsy is well worth taking. While my pants aren't 100% perfect (I'll get to the flaws in a minute), they do fit really well. I made a few fit improvements over the RTW version in the muslin and basting phases of this project, so these pants are even better than the pants they are modeled after.


Front view



As for the flaws, there is still a little bit of wonkiness around the darts on the back side. And the crotch isn't perfect. There were a few shots (not posted) where there was some distinct rippling thereabouts. I think that pinching a little out of the crotch on the next version will fix things.


Back view

One of my pet peeves is any kind of show-thru on white pants. It kills me when you can see pocket bags or panty lines. So, I used a pretty heavy cotton which has a visible woven pattern, and I lined it in bemberg. The fabric has some stretch, but is not flowey/drapey. Fabric Mart would probably say the fabric has a "wide cone" drape that will "stand away from the body". (Close-up of the fabric here.) This may have contributed to the dart issues. That said, since white pants can go wrong in any number of ways - most easily when they cling where they shouldn't - I think my fabric choice was pretty right-on.  (Update: I've just identified when and where I bought this fabric: it is Calvin Klein white cotton in a waffle weave that I bought from FabricMart in Sept 2010.)

Face it: my pants rock

Another improvement that I would make to a future version is that, although I tested the waistband/waist fit, in the end there is still some gaping in the back and the pants started scooching down a bit as the waist stretched. Honestly, I'm too curvy around the mid-section for a straight waistband band. So, a contoured waistband will be an enhancement for next time. Also, I omitted any pockets on these pants, simply because I hate the show thru and because I wanted a very simplified first version.

Final thoughts?  Yes, I have a few.

Yaaay pants!
First, I need to get Phin to take me somewhere warm so I can scuba dive and wear white pants in Autumn. (Phin, are you listening?) Second, I need a photo shoot location with better light. But those are besides the point. I really am tickled with these pants - my first white pants ever! Obviously, there are a few things I'll improve on for next time, but I would not put these in the wearable muslin category by any stretch of the imagination - they are way better than that. Let's call them a pilot version.


My final thought is that KK's Jean-ius pants class is fantastic.  Not only did I learn a method for knocking off RTW clothing, but it really is chocked full of great tips and tidbits. I had several "aha" moments, plus there are some great construction methods and fitting techniques for pants - like the fly front instructions. This will now be my go-to method. So, two enthusiastic thumbs up.

Next up, since it's Autumn, finishing my leather jacket is the top sewing priority...

17 comments:

Karin said...

You will definitely appreciate them next Spring if you don't get an Indian summer now. Or maybe Phin will take you on an exotic vacay?

Clio said...

Thanks! Since wok kept Phin from the cruise, I'm lobbying hard for a getaway!

T. Sedai said...

Ooooh, these look great! Even if these aren't totally perfect, at least you have a great starting point for your next pair of pants. I always think white pants look very sharp when I see other people wearing them, but I have never found a good pair for myself. I agree there can be a lot of see-though problems with white, but it looks like you managed to avoid them. I am inspired to make some white pants for myself now.


Oh, and I think your top is super cute too!

Faye Lewis said...

Clio you did a wonderful job on your jeans and you're look goooood in them too!

Meg at Mood said...

Kenneth is teaching at Mood in October on how to copy your favorite garments. You should def come! Love the pants, btw.

Lisette said...

Your pants do rock! I see a great fit!

Catherine Daze said...

Those are so elegant. Hope you get an opportunity to wear then soon!

Clio said...

Oooh! Thanks for letting me know, Meg!

Clio said...

Exactly! I always love white pants on others but never had a good dressing room experience when I tried them for myself. Over the years, I totally stock piled white bottom weight fabric. So...

Bonnie Deger said...

Your pants look great! I love the top, too. Did you make that one?

Tia Dia said...

They look fantastic! I'm on the fence about taking the KK class. I purchased the Couture Dress and haven't gotten around to taking it yet. But these are a really great pair of white pants!

Clio said...

Thanks! I didn't. The top is actually from Ann Taylor.

Clio said...

Thanks! If you have a tough time with pants, the class is worth it. Especially if you have RTW pants that fit well.

Meg the Grand said...

The fit is spot on! I definitely love that they are white and not see through - I've longed for a white pair of pants like that for as long as I can remember! Yes, you definitely need to go on a fabulous warm vacation or call these "winter white pants." Well done!!

Evie said...

These are just lovely! They definitely need an exotic break.

The Slapdash Sewist said...

These pants look phenomenal on you! They definitely deserve a scuba trip somewhere warm this Fall. The fit is great and they are indeed the most opaque white pants I've seen.

PS I have a serious pattern stash problem too. They seem so small and manageable, but get up to several hundred and they're not so small anymore.

Laura said...

Nice job! Your review of the class is very helpful too. I've been stalled mid-lesson 3. You offer great inspiration to keep going! Just hope I'm as happy with the outcome :)