Monday, September 15, 2014

A Simple "Maternitized" Ruched Knit Dress

I've been getting so much wear out of my V1314 Tracy Reese dresses (both the maternity one and the unaltered one which still just fits) that I decided to bang out one more, this time in a fun cotton jersey print from Fabric Mart.

I really like how this print has photographed. It really isn't that blue in real life. The print is black on an off white background with blue highlights, but here it looks brighter and crisper -  navy with a lot of blue.




I hadn't announced that I was pregnant when I posted the black version of this dress at about week 18. So, now at week 30, I thought I'd mention how I "maternitized" this pattern.

Most pregnancy growth is on the front of the body. So, really not much extra room is needed on the back, leaving just one piece of this dress to alter. Also, one of my pet peeves for maternity clothing is seams that pull to the front (like this). This can be avoided to a great extent by adding the needed room where the room is needed (ie: the front) and leaving the back pretty much alone.

When I first sewed this pattern - as a tunic - I had traced an 8 through the upper back and a 12 through the bust.  The bust was a little big then and I had to take it in. But now that my bust is a little fuller (thank you, Raspberry), it fits really well exactly how I had originally traced it. Also, it was a little big in the upper midriff - again perfect for pregnancy. So, the only other thing I needed to do was add some room to the front bumpage area. I added about 4 inches there just by grading out by 2 inches at each front side seam and then tapering back in below the hip. It's not a perfect way to alter a pattern, but it certainly worked well enough. Since it's a ruched dress, I simply eased any extra front length into the seam.

Ruching is a pregnant figure's best friend. If I was altering a non-ruched pattern to accommodate a growing belly, I would also add some length to the center front, like I did with this dress (yes, that dipped front hem was a strategic decision). But thanks to the ruching, there is enough fabric to go over the belly without pulling up the hem in the front.

I should probably add that this dress is designed with a lining, which is not ruched, but I have omitted it on every version. Since I want the ruching to be able to spread out over the bump, it would be counter-productive in a maternity garment, I think.

Anyway, here it is styled for work.

The color is more accurate in this shot. 
After taking this photo, I went back to the Craft Lounge and took about 2-3 inches off the hem so it hits at the knee and not below. I've been leaving my hems a little longer in general these days; it's a luxury when you are tall! But I think I've probably swung too far toward modest. So, up goes the hem.

Anyway, I had a tough time accessorizing this dress. None of my necklaces looked right.  They all sort of got lost with the print or were too jarring a contrast. So, I threw on a black fly away sweater with a belt with a silver buckle and added silver accented flats and earrings.

How would you accessorize this busy dress if it was yours (either with or without bump)?