Finished Named Shane Top (and Review)

Note as of  2/3/2014: Please see the update on the Named Clothing blog - click here and here. They have made/are making changes that address some of the issues I point out in this review of their pattern.  What a great response from Named to their customers' concerns.

So, here's what I spent my spare time on Thanksgiving weekend sewing.

It's the Shane Pleated top by Named Patterns. Yes, I did it. I sewed an indie pattern.

I'm really liking this. The volume created by the neck pleating on both the front and back is a lot for me, but I love how it is balanced by the bareness of the sides.

When I asked Phin which of the many options for what to wear underneath it he thought worked best, the conversation went like this:

Clio: How about this tank top?

Phin (looking up from laptop): tape

C: What about this lacy cami?

P (quick glance up): Tape!

C: How about this lacy bra?

P (barely bothering to look up): Taaaape!

C: How about this snake skin bandeau?

P (puts laptop aside in frustration): TAPE!

So, um, here it is, with tape. (We here at Clio & Phin believe that virtually all red carpet wardrobe malfunctions can be prevented... with tape.)

Tape. You get the picture now, yes?

Although fashion tape will keep the sides in place, they are still incredibly bare. Seriously. So, while I do love this look for very elegant evening affairs, I think you have to be careful with it. Much more often than not, this top will be worn with a cami or snakeskin bandeau underneath it. Like so:
 

Bandeau and trouser option.

My only quibble is that the bandeau creates a bit of uniboob. Oh well.  I actually think this top would be fantastic on the smaller-of-bust. Perhaps even better than on me.

I used stretch silk from Chic Fabrics in two different colors - red and gold - for this top. It gets aces for drape, but I think it might have been a bit too heavy. The weight of the pleats make the neckline roll slightly outward despite understitching. I'm not really fussed about it because you can already see the lining at the sides by design. Anyway, if I was going to sew it again, I'd use something lighter weight - crepe de chine, chiffon or habotai would all be good options.

I haven't quite figured out how to wear this casually yet. I'd love to put it on with jeans and a cami, but all of my jeans sit below the waist, leaving a 2-3" gap between jeans and top. 

Anyway, I promised honesty in my indie pattern reviews. So here goes.

There is a lot to like about this pattern. I'm sort of impressed.  First off, there are separate lining pieces rather than the cop-out of telling you to just sew two of the same and hoping that the bulk will work itself out at the neckline. And the lining is drafted slightly smaller than the shell, which helps it pull the seams slightly to the inside at the armscyes to prevent lining from rolling out, even though the pattern is designed to show off the lining.

In addition, the crazy mohawk at the top of the shell completely lines up and creates a really smooth neckline once you fold and sew in the pleats. I admit it: I was somewhat skeptical that it would work out. Again, good drafting. Helpfully, the stitching lines are drawn onto the pattern pieces as well.

Crazy mohawk to smooth neckline

Edited on 12/11:  I should add that the pattern markings were good. Pleats, lining darts and armscye joins were all clear and accurate.

Also, sewing the size that corresponded to my high bust measurement seems to have worked out, although I would consider going a size larger in the future or doing an FBA for a little extra side coverage. However, you only get two sizes of the pattern when you purchase it, and the seam allowances are only 3/8". This is ok it but doesn't leave much wiggle room if you have to let it out or go up or down in sizing. The only change I made to the pattern was to take in the side seams by 1/2" (total of 2" less circumference) so that the top nipped in a little at the waist. This created a bit of needed shape on my figure and, if you can believe it, made the arm holes a little smaller.

And with that, unfortunately, we segue into what I didn't like.

The biggie is the instructions. There is no other way to say it: they are BWTF-worthy. Honestly, this is a pretty straight forward top to sew, but I can see how a beginner would easily be lost in the woods. There are no illustrations and some language/translation issues. I had to put on my Burda thinking cap for finishing the armholes. The instructions were either incomprehensible or incorrect. I'm not sure which. I tried to follow them but turned my top into a water weenie-esque tube. After undoing several seams, I followed these instructions for machine finishing a sleeveless dress over at Green Apples. It worked beautifully.

My other issues are not related to sewing, but impact my experience nonetheless. They are:

• Just 2 sizes when you purchase. This is fine for a top, but with any pattern that has to fit my top and bottom, I normally bridge 3 sizes. Not ideal.
• Patterns are formatted for A4 letterhead. This is NOT a standard size in the US and certainly not one that most of us keep in stock. Fortunately, my employer is British and I am not above stealing from work using scrap paper from the recycle bin. But large scale formatting or US letterhead formatting would have been appreciated.
• The pattern pieces are overlapping a la Burda. So, after you print and tape them together, you then have to trace them off, too. Annoying.
• The price. I paid $20.75 for this top. For the price, I could have bought any Colette, Sewaholic or Deer and Doe pattern - all of which are paper patterns and include illustrated instructions. Other digital downloads are not this expensive.

So, I guess my overall assessment is that this is a good pattern, but not user-friendly for the North American audience and overpriced compared to their peers. I hope that Named will fix some of these issues as they grow since I do like their designs, but have little incentive to be a repeat customer given the cost and hassle.  Honestly, they would have to put out a pattern that I really felt I couldn't find in my Burda collection for me to buy again soon. 

That said, I do really love this top.