Monday, August 25, 2014

Project Bump: Planning a Fun and Flattering Maternity Wardrobe

So, now that the news is out there, the fun begins. Let me tell you, I'm so glad I sew. Despite my grousing about my bump not being more obvious, my body is actually changing rapidly and has been for some time.

As I've already said, maternity RTW is a rather bleak scene. How bleak? Check out my "Dark Side of Maternity" Pinterest board for an inkling. I'm not against maternity RTW, but it has the same problems as normal RTW amplified by it's brief lifespan. Big price tags, poor fit and shoddy fabric and construction all seem to converge somewhere around the belly. So far the only RTW purchases I've made are a few cotton tank tops for the gym and some super stretchy camis to wear as basics/base layers. 

So what am I wearing these days aside from new swimmies? Good question. Well, I'm wearing a lot of non-maternity items that I sewed for myself, both before and during early pregnancy, including all of these.

Thank heavens I sew!!
Top row (l to r): V1314 Tracy Reese dress in black and tomato red , and Simplicity 3503 which I sewed in 2009
Middle: McCalls 6556 Fashion Star dress/tunic and 2 pairs of Ralph Pink Hareem pants in purple silk and black modal
Bottom: Vogue 8959 Ewok fur cape (ok, I'm not wearing this now since its summer, but I sewed it as sneaky maternity wear knowing I might need it this fall/winter), V8977 Oonapalloza dress and BurdaStyle 07/2011-124 Kimono. Trust me that the lounge wear is getting lots of use!

None of these were sewn with any maternity alterations except that the black Tracey Reese dress has some extra wiggle room. However, as my belly has started to grow, I've begun to contemplate a small wardrobe designed specifically to carry me through late-pregnancy and the first few months postpartum. I really want it to be fun, flattering and feel like me. Here are some considerations/challenges.

  • My legs: Early on I had plans to sew maternity trousers and alter RTW trousers with a maternity panel . However, a strong hereditary risk for varicose veins (thanks mom, grandma and grandma) meant that at the first sign of swollen, tired legs/veins I decided that medical grade compression hoisery was a must. I give myself one day a week off if my legs feel ok. But on a daily basis I am rockin' the granny pantyhose. Skirts and dresses rule. 
  • Limited time: My due date is in 13 weeks and in the last week my belly has noticeably grown. So, time is clearly of the essence. This is not my normal sewing style. 
  • My sewing style is my own worst enemy: Oh boy. How I hate sewing basics! And I love complicated technique and really good finishes. And I over fit things. Also, once I sew a pattern, I'm usually on to the next complicated thing. But for pregnancy, I need a compromise - sewing things that are easy, can be replicated, but won't feel like I'm sewing the same things over and over or wearing a boring and monotonous wardrobe. 
  • Limited sewing patterns: Maternity is a very small niche for pattern companies and I'm already picky about patterns. There aren't that many different styles to choose from. 
  • Work life vs Maternity Leave/Postpartum: I very much need to focus on things I can wear to work now, but include garments that I'll be happy to wear while on maternity leave and work for breast feeding. This is a challenge of both style and fit.  
  • Time of year: It's summer now, but will be almost winter by my due date. I'm hoping to transition garments through the seasons using layering - shrugs, tights, base layers, etc. 
Here are my assets:

  • I sew. Smartest skill to learn ever!!!
  • I have a serger. It has become the star of my sewing room in the last few months. 
  • I have lots of fabric! Yay fabric! Raw materials are a great thing!
  • I have mojo! I see the above challenges as fun obstacles to overcome and it's really got my mojo in overdrive. 
  • I'm open minded. I've already been experimenting with volume (wasn't I sneaky about that, folks?) and trying more shapes and styles, which has made it easier to see the potential in non-maternity patterns. Also, I'm feeling less nervous about sewing with prints and knits since this is a limited time project. 
Anyway, what advice do you have for me given my challenges??  If you've ever been pregnant, what were the indispensable items for you during and after pregnancy? Did you sew for yourself? I've already finished a few things and have begun a few more. So, next up, some fun garment reveals and sewing plans. 

29 comments:

Clio said...

I'm declaring "Project Bump" the cutest name ever! The cape seems like perfect outerwear for pregnancy - stylish and roomy. Have you looked at Megan Nielsen's maternity patterns? I feel like knits will be your friend for speedy/comfy/stylish sewing. Good luck!

Clio said...

OK, my advice is not specifically about sewing but it is about the pregnancy wardrobe. Wear a good bra now and a good bra when nursing. Do not skimp in any way. Spend as much as it costs because you want your tits to look as gorgeous as ever when this is said and done. Oh, and make a lot of long sleeved T shirts and yoga-esque pants. Sewing perfection isn't a requirement. In a year, you'll want to burn all of those things anyway.

Clio said...

You know, I really thought about what to call it! So, thanks! ha ha


I have looked into Megan Nielsen's patterns....stay tuned!

Clio said...

Wise words!! I've gone up a bra size and probably will again. I haven't actually purchased anything that is a "maternity" or "nursing" bra. But I've been focusing on support since it's a bigger and growing concern (nyuk nyuk).


Hmmm, I was just thinking that I should make a bunch more harem pants, which kind of fills the yoga pants portion of my wardrobe. OK, that has now moved up the "to sew" list

Clio said...

Never been pregnant so I have absolutely no insight, but OH MY GOD, your Pinterest board is seriously scary. I am especially frightened of the breast pump band. 8-D

Clio said...

I had to wear that heavy duty compression hose with wrapped ace bandages above the knee. The whole rig is less noticeable if you are wearing slacks. They told me it would make a big difference later on but sadly I have a patch on one of my calves. So don't fail to wear them.

Clio said...

I've had four kids, and I did sew a lot of my maternity clothes. My kids are now ages 19-24; maternity clothing back then was not very flattering or versatile. Nor were maternity patterns. Most of the garments I sewed were not from maternity patterns, but from the more flattering "plus-size" patterns that I altered to fit. Knits and rayon were key (comfy!). I would also make several of one garment--a shirt, for example--and alter the neckline or sleeve so that I had clothes that fit well but not eight of the same, exact shirt. The most indispensable items post-pregnancy were compression socks and a good nursing bra. They're probably better these days, but back then, I altered my own bras with hook-and-eye closures on the top of the cup and bottom of the front of the strap. MUCH more comfortable than anything I found in the stores! (Your breasts will become unbelievably huge when your milk comes in, and they'll change size as you nurse, pump, and fill up again; get more than one size and get the absolute most comfortable bras you can find. I also made several wrap dresses and wrap tops, which are easily maneuverable for breastfeeding access (pull to the side, easy-peasy). Maxi dresses are a godsend.
I also had to sew in shorter spurts. Long sessions sitting at the machine are not good for your circulation or your back.
I'd recommend avoiding linen or linen blends for maternity and post-pregnancy wear simply for the wrinkle and stain factor. And nylon. Ugh. You want breathable and washable, because you'll be tired when that baby wakes you up several times a night, and the last thing you need is fussy laundry along with a fussy bambino.
Also, hugely key for stretch marks: rose hip oil, coconut oil or avocado oil, or even Bio Oil, twice a day, from now until you stop nursing. Your stretch marks are only manageable when they're new. If you wait to deal with them, they will not go away or become less noticeable.
Last, but not least: get sleep whenever you can, and eat well.
For real last, but not least: congrats, again! :D

Clio said...

Have you considered maternitizing Jalie 2804? http://www.jalie.com/jalie2804-empire-crossover-top-sewing-pattern.html
I saw a post in which the seamster added a bit of width to the ruched version. She also made a breast-feeding top hack that was pure genius. I can't remember the name of the blog, sorry.

When I was pregnant, I sewed several pairs of maternity pants and shorts from the same pattern. I think it was Burda and is now discontinued. I liked it b/c it didn't have a maternity panel so I could wear shorter (than tunic) length tops w/o having the panel show. I used firm knits or stretch wovens.

I bought maternity patterns, but realized that they fit about the same around the shoulders as pre-maternity. So I used my Burda woven T pattern, which fit me well, and created an empire seam across the F. I then made 1-3 box pleats on the lower portion. In the back, I made one box pleat at the CB.

For knit Ts, I just did a pivot and slide between the shoulder and arm/side seam point. I also added width at the side seams. It worked even though I gained 55# to produce a 8.5# baby. The math just didn't add up. But the hospital weighed both of us.

Clio said...

I'm a couple of months ahead of you with baby number 2, and I've been experimenting a lot this pregnancy with finding maternity-friendly indie patterns (that aren't technically maternity ones). (Last pregnancy I went down the vintage-maternity-patterns route.)

Ones I've found that are good so far for maternity are:

- From Victory - Simone, Lola (curved front seam so it doesn't go across the bump), Anouk, and Roxanne

- From Papercut - Midsummers Night Dream (I did a 'breastfeeding' hack on my latest one, you can see it here: http://macskakat.wordpress.com/2014/06/08/freaky-as-animals-all-camouflaged-even/ ), Coppelia (plus it's good for nursing being a cross-over, and can be hacked to be a wrap dress), the new Clover dress (can be made in a knit) , Petrouchka (again, curved front seam means it doesn't go over the bump), Anima (can do a maternity hack, mine is here: http://macskakat.wordpress.com/2014/07/28/heres-a-new-thing-maternity-trackpant-jeans/), Pneuma, and the Ooh La Leggings don't have a centre front seam so can easily be extended for maternity without an uncomfortable seam over the bump

- From Cake - Tiramisu dress is good for nursing (just thread some elastic inside the neckband or it gets stretched out of shape)
- And of course all the blazer/jacket/etc patterns that are out there. :-) (The Circle Top from Papercut is a fave of mine at the moment - fun and cozy!)


And when it comes time for nursing, I found shirt dresses are awesome - just do the side seams last, so you can take them in as you lose weight. Snap fasteners are faster and easier to undo than buttons. And there's heaps of great indie (and vintage) shirt dress patterns out there. :-)

Clio said...

I didn't sew for my first pregnancy because I didn't sew at the time, and I didn't for my second either because that one was "heavier" to carry and with the bigger to take care of, I didn't have the energy level, especially considering the short life span of the clothes I would have produced. I used a lot of maternity bands to be able to wear my normal tops as long as possible. One dress I made, and would recommend (I wear it till this day) is Vogue 8706 (http://lin3arossa.wordpress.com/2011/04/17/baby-steps-vogue-8706/).

Clio said...

So many congratulations to you both! :) You're absolutely right - the fact that you sew is a huuuuuge asset right now! Not to mention owning a serger and plenty of fabric. I've sewn up a few maternity makes for my closest friend recently - which included a megan neilson ruched skirt. Kinda like your gorgeous tomato red tracey reese dress, but with a bit more gathering going on. It seemed like a good option for transitioning post-partum (at least, initially) also. I'll look forward to seeing what everyone else has to say!

Clio said...

I recently had two babies close together, and I want to concur with the comment about having supportive bras. They also make you much more comfortable. Buy one or two nursing bras when you are close to delivery and save the receipts. You might be surprised by your bra size when you start nursing. With my first, I didn't change size at all compared with my pre-birth size, and with my second, I was a little larger. My mom said she used to get a little smaller once she started nursing.

I would also second the suggestion for yoga stye pants and also suggest finding some good cotton lycra or lycra technical fabric. Breathable fabrics are a must, IMO. I was 38 and 40 yrs when my kids were born, and I don't know if it was my age, but as my hormones rebalanced after childbirth, I tended to have temperature control issues similar to hot flashes. And when pregnant, the extra weight and fluid meant I tended to heat up easier toward the end.

Technical fabrics are also handy for maternity/post maternity clothes because they wash and line dry quickly. Because you will be washing your clothes a lot for a while.

Burda usually throws a few maternity patterns into one of their magazines per year, so I assume the BurdaStyle site will have those in its database. I would also suggest looking on the BurdaStyle website for patterns for tops. Those patterns are often fairly simply constructed, but with a twist to make them interesting. Burda often has a selection of regluar size tops that you might have previously considered too unstructured or shapeless to wear prior to maternity, but that might be just the ticket now. I was able to wear a lot of non-maternity tops up until the end, if I went up a couple of sizes and the style of the top was not fitted in the waist (obvs).

My last bit of advice before I yield the floor, is that you might want to consider making and putting away an outfit or two for after the baby is born. It will feel good to have something "new" to wear after baby arrives. Babies sleep a lot, and I assumed I would have time to make a few quick things here and there after mine arrived. Not so much. But, your mileage may vary.

Clio said...

Such good points!! And, I'll actually have just turned 39 when this baby arrives. I'm not really going to plan on being able to sew anything for the first while. (I'll sleep when Raspberry sleeps!!) So, having some things that I'm not mortified to wear out of the house is definitely a good bit of advice!!


I am buying up knits like they aren't making any more! ;-) But I hadn't considered performance fabric. You're very right though - easy care and quick drying would be a huge benefit!

Clio said...

Well, stay tuned because you will be seeing that skirt on this blog...

Clio said...

Thanks so much! OH, I have to get on top of the stretch marks. (There's just so much to think about!!) I've been moisturizing like crazy since my skin seems dry, but not doing anything specific for stretch marks.


Funny you mention altering your bras - I already have been altering band width and strap length to make sure I get a really supportive fit.


Ha! Thank goodness Phin does the laundry! But yes, since it's moving toward fall anyway, and this babe will arrive in late Nov, I'm definitely thinking about cosy and comfy knits for long winter nights. ;-)

Clio said...

Yeah. I'm committed. And on a day to day basis, I'm much more comfy with them than without. Given heredity, I will most likely not escape unscathed, but we'll see!

Clio said...

LOL - Isn't it terrifying!?!?! Like a sci fi torture device.

Clio said...

i think that you might really enjoy playing with these patterns: http://www.centerforpatterndesign.com/collections/patterns

your future dress reminds me of these, and there are some options that seem like they might be fun for maternity, while also being varied, and using some challenging techniques (though perhaps ones you can master and won't be indefinitely challenging).

Clio said...

Thanks so much! Yeah, sadly, I think my future dress may be my first ever UFO! I'm still struggling to do the straps and have to unpick some french seams, and it's the end of the season for such a light fabric. So, it may not get done until spring. Oy.

Clio said...

Wow, I can see how this would work out great for maternity - the ruching is exactly where it's most needed! Thanks! I've just added it to my Pinterest board!

Clio said...

Thanks so much!!! Yeah, since it really is a niche, none of the indies do maternity except Megan Nielson. And going through all their sites looking for patterns.... well lets just say there's a lot else on my plate now. I'm going to add all of these to my pinterest board of good ideas!!


I'm still actually wearing a few non-maternity RTW wrap dresses that I own, so I think it's safe to say you will probably see some of that here. And I've definitely got plans for some wrap tops/shrugs that will be good for nursing (like the Coppelia).


And BTW, your little guy is ADORABLE!!! Holy cow!

Clio said...

Re Jalie 2804 - if you could see what I'm wearing today.... stay tuned.


I'm actually working on a lot of frankenpattern type hacks combining the lower half of maternity pattens and the top of non. So, very similar to what you did. The shoulders are the one part of my body that isn't changing!!

Clio said...

Nursing mothers are best served with blouses and dresses that fasten up the front. That, and sweaters/tops that are roomy enough to hide Junior under while you nurse -- trying to keep a blanket or towel draped over the two of you is ridiculously difficult, I found. Don't worry about special tucks or pleats to hide access slots, you'll only be able to use those sorts of tops while actively nursing. Make good-quality fabric choices for loose blouses and tops, and you'll be able to wear the garments years after you and/or the baby has decided it's time to wean. Oh, and nurse for as long as you can get away with it, but DO capture some milk and freeze it for a bottle, every day. You still need to train your infant to drink from a bottle, because someday you'll leave the baby with a sitter. Someday you may be too ill to feed, or worse. Don't let your child starve because you were a Militant Breast mama! Thus endeth the lesson. (You are in for so much fun, you and Phin and the baby!)

Clio said...

Also have a look at Megan Nielsen's patterns. And have an eye open for nursing-friendly garments if you intend to nurse.

Clio said...

And if you intend to sew for that little one, get ottobre.

Clio said...

Yeah, I've bought up a bunch of her patterns. Really, I think they are the most modern and versatile mat patterns out there.

Clio said...

Maybe this is another post entirely, but I am definitely planning on breastfeeding, and pumping is part of that plan. In addition to the reasons you mentioned, I want Phin to be able to feed the little one, too once we've gotten breastfeeding established as the norm. So, yeah, no militant tendencies here!


I'm glad you brought up the access slot tops - they kind of weird me out. I don't really like them and was wondering what others thought. I thought wrap style, deep v neck, tank top, or button up styles might work just as well, and I am thinking about sewing some wraps to act as nursing covers - like Simplicity 2603 - http://www.simplicity.com/p-1560-misses-tops.aspx

Clio said...

Any way you can pop one out in a hurry will work. I don't mind seeing nursing mothers "out there." But the Titty Police will go out of their way to hound you. My SIL took her baby out of a restaurant to nurse in her car, with the windows rolled up, and a blanket encasing them both from her neck to her toes. An old man followed her out of the place, banged on her window and shouted at her to stop her public indecency because it offended him. Sheesh!

Clio said...

check out http://www.beautejadore.com/
Nikki took big 4 patterns and altered for her growing bump and she used stretchy fabrics as well. So a great resource for inspiration.
My advice is always always always look fabulous even when you don't feel it. Putting on clothing and doing my hair made me perk up. I had lots of stretchy clothing that fit and felt comfortable.